Latest News!
- Monisha Bharadwaj has a host of lovely courses at her Indian Cooking School (www.cookingwithmonisha.com).
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shopping on 23rd December.
- Inn
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etched in the Guinness Book of World Records for Most Bowls of Hand
Pulled Noodles (La Mien) Prepared in Three Minutes. Inn Noodle’s Head Chef, Fei Wang, went up toe-to-toe with the celebrity
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- Inn Noodle,25 Oxford Street,London,W1D 2DW. OR Inn Noodle, 106 Queensway,London,W2 3RR Check it out!
The Quintessentially English
Lotte
Lotte Duncan's love of cooking started at an early age, when she went
through to the finals of Junior Cook of the Year. At 18 years old she left her
Cordon Bleu school with distinctions, worked in Switzerland and went on to open
a diner in Los Angeles. Her career is very broad-based!
Lotte has been a
regular on British TV for almost ten years and is a skilled and highly
experienced presenter. She rises to any challenge with charm and humour.
She is probably one of our leading authorities on English cooking, and takes
great pride in presenting and promoting our culinary heritage. Starting out on
television with three of her own series, Simply Puddings, Feast Days and
Holidays and Quick Cooks on Carlton, developing and writing all her own recipes.
Her guest appearances include Channel 4’s The Richard and Judy Show,
Ready Steady Cook, Battle of the Chefs, Channel 5’s Open House with Gloria
Hunniford and The Terry and Gabby Show and lots of others. Most recently Lotte
has been seen on Channel Five's series 'Cooking the Books'.
In October
2006, Lotte fulfilled a dream by opening her own English Country Cookery School.
She offers one-to-one cooking days, cookery and gardening days, traditional
cheese making, food and wine matching and other courses from her delightfully
“chocolate box” country cottage in Buckinghamshire.
Lotte is also one of
the small group of authorised AGA Demonstrators. If you have just moved in with
an AGA or the AGA has just moved in with you then Lotte’s your girl. She’ll calm
you down, cheer you up and help you out with loads of advice.
Have a
look at Lotte’s lovely web site at http://www.lotteduncan.com/ It’s not
often that one could describe a web site as gorgeous but this one is. Her father
is the renowned cartoonist and playwright Robert Duncan and I wonder if he had a
hand in it?
Lotte’s concern for wider issues is reflected in her support
for The Hope Foundation, an Irish charity set up to help the street children of
Kolkuta. Lotte is now one of the directors and is currently helping with its
launch in Britain.
Lotte Duncan still has time to run her lovely home in
Buckinghamshire (often in her wellies), with a much-loved daughter, Daisy, and
some now famous cats!
Lotte Duncan – Queen of Cuisine at QVC
Lotte looks effervescent, attractive and warm on TV (in real life she
is effervescent, attractive and warm) as she presents her choice of
quality foods for her new spot on QVC. Lotte has, in fact, not only
food in her battery of products but also some amazing knives which even
sport her name, and the cupcake that has become her trademark.
It’s been my great pleasure to taste some of the items that Lotte is
promoting on QVC. It’s a high-end selection and just a bit different
from the usual high street staples. Lotte has spent a lot of time
sourcing and sampling everything. She has met the producers and assured
herself that the meat products are the best quality and the animals
have been treated in a humane and caring fashion.
British wine is no longer a joke. The UK now makes some of the finest
wines, wines that have beaten the French into second place in
blind-tasting competitions. Lotte offers wine produced in the UK and
also that which has come from British wine producers in France.
I now have a passion for Simple Simon Pies. Lotte has found a pieman
who makes the most delicious pies I have ever eaten. The pies look a
bit like a raised pork pie but that is where the resemblance ends. The
pastry is light and flaky and the fillings are rich and generous. There
are lots of varieties of meat fillings but also a fish pie which is
outstanding. There are a couple of sweet pies as well.
Lotte hasn’t forgotten the pud lovers. She has found the Red Earth
Kitchen who make a range of gooey, tempting and comforting puddings
which are to die for. They also have ready meals but not ready meals as
we have known them. Cauliflower Cheese, Cottage pie, Chicken and
Mushroom Bake and Seasonal Vegetable Pie are all made with the finest
ingredients and would be ideal gifts for friends who live alone... or
who just can’t cook!
Visit QVC and watch Lotte present her lovely food.
Best British Dishes
Marguerite Patten is surely the most celebrated cook and food writer in Britain. She is probably the most respected
by her fellow professionals, who would all be familiar with her
recipes, skill and passion for food. Marguerite serves as a model for
those who truly care about British cooking. She remains an icon because
her work is solid and she has paid her dues at the altar of hard work.
This is a collection of, as the lady says, the Best British Dishes and
there are over 400 of them. I am sure the cynics will be surprised at
that number but we have outstanding food within these isles. This
amazing lady has penned over 170 books which have mostly concentrated
on traditional dishes. It’s thanks to her that there are still chefs
and cooks who are not ashamed to present a home-grown bill of fare.
Best British Dishes has classic recipes. They are not dull and
flavourless as the aficionados of all things foreign would suggest. We
have a history of using spices and strong condiments such as mustard
and Worcestershire sauce. Our vegetables can be good quality and we
have an amazing choice of cheeses which feature to good effect in this
volume.
It’s difficult to pick favourite dishes from this book. There is so
much here that transports me to my own first attempts at cooking.
Cornish Splits are sweet rolls filled with clotted cream and jam. These
make a lovely alternative to scones for a traditional afternoon tea.
Eccles Cakes are another delicious treat which dates back to the reign
of Elizabeth I and probably before. These are a cross between a pie and
a cake and I think they are quite unique, as is Bread Pudding. This is
the old-fashioned Bread Pudding (rather than the much lighter Bread and
Butter Pudding more frequently offered today) which is rib-sticking and
substantial and often baked by my grandmother who had a large brood of
ever-hungry children to feed.
Marguerite will be introducing a new generation to the delights of
home-made Cornish Pasties, real Lancashire Hotpot, Black Pudding with
Apples (that’s a “must try”), Beef Wellington (expensive but
memorable), Kedgeree for breakfast, and Fish Cakes which are elevated
to near-luxury when made with salmon. I could go on but suffice it to
say Best British Dishes is a veritable treasury of temping foods that
seem to be sadly overlooked these days.
Jamie Oliver says “What a wonderful book that celebrates the fantastic,
historical diversity of cooking in Britain.” Best British Dishes is a
book typical of the charm and quality of Marguerite Patten’s writing.
One of the best British cookbooks around. Delightful!
Best British Dishes
Author: Marguerite Patten
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-906502-23-2
 A Delicious Way to Earn a Living
This is a collection of the food writing of the late and great Michael Bateman who has been recognised as the first of the modern investigative food journalists.
Michael started writing in the 1960s when food wasn’t the trendy
subject it is today. There was little interest in the media apart from
the occasional fright from contaminated corned beef. It’s perhaps an
illustration of the lack of interest in food at that time that it was
the banal corned beef that caused the scare rather than soft French
Cheese or lobster.
Michael Bateman was Food Editor of the Independent on Sunday from its
launch in 1989 till his untimely death in 2006, although he worked for
lots of publications throughout his long and illustrious career
including the Shields Gazette, Daily Herald, Daily Mail and many
others. His books include Cooking People (no, it’s not about
cannibalism, it’s a book of interviews with prominent figures from the
world of food), and Good Enough to Eat, a study of food safety and
nutrition which was shortlisted for the prestigious Andre Simon Award.
A Delicious Way to Earn a Living is a marvellous book of food writing
from this man who was so very popular and respected. He was popular
because he was good and he was good because he was writing about a
subject for which he had a passion. Michael was cooking curry before it
was Britain’s favourite food, and Paella before most people had even
heard of it.
The articles are informative, accessible and amusing. He discusses the
new (at that time) interest in vegetarianism. “Now, you wouldn’t call
Ted Ray or Leo Tolstoy cranks would you? Or Pete Murray and Mahatma
Gandhi. Or John Peel and Buddha.....?” That article is a witty
testament to the passage of time, but names that are current are also
represented. Sophie Grigson has an item all to herself and she
obviously charmed Michael, who remarks upon her punkish hair and junk
(I wouldn’t call them junk) earrings.
A Delicious Way to Earn a Living will introduce a new audience to the
fine and amusing writing of the late Michael Bateman and will allow his
faithful followers another chance to dip into this amazing treasury.
Yet another quality volume from Grub Street.
A Delicious Way to Earn a Living
Author: Michael Bateman
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £18.99
ISBN 978-1-904943-92-1
The Art of Simple Food
If you haven’t spent much time in the USA you might not instantly recognise the name Alice Waters. She is held in
the same regard as the late and magnificent Julia Child and is a woman
that even the iconic Martha Stewart bows to on all things culinary.
Alice is as popular as our Delia but with a restaurant base rather than
a TV series.
Alice Waters was born in 1944, in New Jersey. She graduated from the
University of California, Berkeley in 1967 with a degree in French
Cultural Studies. She trained at the Montessori School in London before
spending a year travelling in France.
Alice opened her restaurant Chez Panisse in California in 1971, serving
a fixed-price menu that changes daily. The set menu format remains key
to Alice's philosophy of serving only seasonal and fresh produce. The
upstairs café at Chez Panisse opened in 1980 with an open
kitchen, a wood-burning pizza oven, and an à la carte menu.
Café Fanny, named after Alice’s daughter, serves breakfast and
lunch, and opened 1984.
The Art of Simple Food is a book that has its entire focus on good
ingredients, prepared without fuss. Alice starts with the basics but
never confuses the reader with complicated cooking methods. It’s truly
simple food but that’s not to say it’s bland or uninteresting. The
dishes range from family fare to the more exotic Bagna Cauda.
The recipes, although good, solid and mostly familiar, have a
Californian flavour that makes The Art of Simple Food an interesting
read. It represents the style of food served in Alice’s restaurant and
reminds us of trips to the Napa Valley. Quesadillas, Frittata, Pumpkin
Pie all help to convince you that this isn’t a reprint of your
grandmother’s cookbook.
Among the cake recipes is Cranberry Upside-Down Cake which has a real
American feel and will be an ideal Christmas dessert. It’s an
alternative to the classic apple Tarte Tatin and has the advantage of
being less sweet and a bit more colourful.
Apart from the Californian slant there is plenty here to suggest that
Alice Waters paid attention to her time in France. There are several
Provencal dishes including the ubiquitous Ratatouille and Nicoise Salad.
The Art of Simple Food is an ideal cookbook for those who want a single
volume that covers every aspect of cooking. Nothing is daunting for the
novice and there are plenty of new dishes for the more experienced home
cook.
The Art of Simple Food
Author: Alice Waters
Published by: Michael Joseph, Penguin
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-0-718-15438-7
The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books
Perhaps this book should have been entitled The Road to
Chicken Tikka Masala for it charts the evolution of “Indian” food in
Britain. It’s been a long and sometimes chequered story which
mirrors the close association between the UK and India, the jewel in
Queen Victoria’s crown. 
The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books is part of a
remarkable series from Prospect Books. The English Kitchen series looks
at the history of dishes and their place in our cuisine. Other volumes
include Trifle and Soup, but Early Vegetarian Recipes and Rhubarbarian
will follow shortly. They form a fascinating study into what we eat and
why.
The authors, Helen Saberi and David Burnett, are well placed to write a
quality food-related volume. Helen has penned Noshe Djan – Afghan Food
and Cookery, and assisted the late Alan Davidson in the compilation of
the Oxford Companion to Food. David is a publisher who has won acclaim
for his re-publication of Countryman’s Cooking by W.F. Fowler.
Our love of curry did, in fact, start before the Victorian era. The
first mention of a curry in a cookbook was in 1717, although Nicholas
Culpeper discusses in 1653 the properties of many of the spices that
later were recognised as key curry ingredients. Of coriander he writes
“... sends up unwholesome vapours to the brain, dangerous for mad
people.” I hear that curry is often on the menu at the House of
Commons; there is hope though, as the ever-popular mustard is said to
be “...excellent for one that is troubled with lethargy.”
The charm of The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books is that
it’s a compilation from a variety of cookbooks. The attitudes they
present range from the naive to the enlightened, with even the
quintessentially English Mrs Beeton interesting herself in the
preparation of a Chicken Curry with Chickpeas. She even recommends the
use of ghee (Indian clarified butter) and that indicates that those
returning from the subcontinent brought with them some traditional
Indian ideas ...and perhaps some traditional Indian cooks.
Dr. Senn produced a good many cookery books before the First World War
and until the 1930s. He is “famed” for such works as Tomatoes and Their
Many Uses, and Special Dishes for Borstal Institutions. He notes that
“...Madras curry is of the best classical period”, “...The Bengal
artist is greatest in fish and vegetable curries”, and “...Bombay
boasts of its particular gifts in its bomelow fish and popedoms.” I can
find no reference to bomelow fish so I conclude that it must be extinct!
The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books is a fascinating and
sometimes amusing look at the food we love so much. We might not eat
“authentic” Indian food but we seem to love our version of it. This
book is a must for anyone who enjoys Britain’s favourite food.
The Road to Vindaloo – Curry Cooks and Curry Books
Authors: Helen Saberi and David Burnett
Published by: Prospect Books
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-903018-57-6
Pepper – The Spice that Changed the World
The history of pepper, and there’s 3000 years of it, is as romantic and bloody as any work of fiction. Pepper has
been used in medicine, in embalming when the medicine didn’t work, as
currency, and as a status symbol. It’s one of the few spices that has
continually graced the British cruet since cruets were invented. It’s
so ubiquitous that it’s often a seasoning relegated to the ranks of
“common” and “boring”.
Christine McFadden has penned this witty and absorbing volume. She is a
celebrated food writer twice nominated for world food media awards,
former vice-chair of the Guild of Food Writers and is the author of
thirteen other books including The World of Chocolate, Cool Green
Leaves and Red Hot Peppers, and Tools for Cooks. Christine is an active
member of the Slow Food movement.
Pepper – The Spice that Changed the World charts the rise of pepper and
its progress from India to Europe via Arab traders. Pepper was found
inside the mummified body of the Pharaoh Ramses, and was flaunted by
Romans who used huge quantities of the expensive spice to impress their
guests.
At the time of Queen Elizabeth I the English stevedores, the equivalent
of modern dockers (if there are indeed still such men), were forbidden
to wear clothing with cuffs and had their pockets sewn up to discourage
pepper pilfering. Pepper still had a certain aristocratic value in
1973. That year saw Prince Charles Invested as the Duke of Cornwall
with his feudal rent amounting to a pound of peppercorns.
It’s not just a history book. Pepper – The Spice that Changed the World
even offers advice on buying a pepper mill, a gadget that I only
encountered for the first time in 1975. There is, in fact, everything
you might ever want to know about pepper, including lists of varieties
and tasting notes. This isn’t a dry academic work although it’s full of
information. Christine has an engaging style of writing, with every
chapter littered with light humour.
There are over 100 recipes, which include everything from salad to
cakes, and there are lots of delicious surprises such as Black Pepper
Brownies, Pink Pepper Blondies and Hot and Sour Courgettes. Steak au
Poivre (Pepper Steak) is traditional and a typical French menu item but
it’s a good platform for what was, until recently, a much underrated
spice.
Pepper – The Spice that Changed the World is informative but it’s
equally an enjoyable read, well written and fascinating. I hope to
review more books by Christine McFadden in the near future.
Pepper – The Spice that Changed the World
Author: Christine McFadden
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £25.00
ISBN 9781904573609
The Branded Cookbook
Sounds like a recipe book from an old Arizona ranch. The Branded Cookbook is, in fact, a colourful, slightly retro,
periodically Andy Warholish cookbook which concentrates on famous and
iconic foods. It’s utterly unique, quirky, well designed and full of
delicious and surprising ideas.
The authors Nick Sandler and Johnny Acton have an amazing breadth of
literary and culinary experience between them. Nick is the Creative
Chef for Prêt A Manger and a well respected development chef.
Johnny is a writer and journalist who has authored on topics as diverse
as high altitude ballooning and the history of money!
The ingredients mentioned, for ingredients are just what these branded
products become, are familiar and readily available. Staples like
Kellogg’s Cornflakes, Quaker Oats, Vegemite (Vegemite??) and Heinz
Tomato Ketchup. The recipes are certainly not all of the cheap and
cheerful sort that I had expected. There are lobsters, mussels, salmon
and Stilton to complement the Lea and Perrins and the Colman’s mustard.
I am sure we have all, with a sense of misguided guilt, concocted our
own dishes using some of the aforementioned products. It’s a relief to
find a real cookbook that acknowledges their quality, and encourages us
to take that extra step and admit that the scrumptious fish supper was,
in reality, Fish Fingers Coated with Oats, and Cornflakes with
Hellmann’s Tartar Sauce!
The only product here that might cause the British home cook some
problems is Skippy Peanut Butter. It’s a brand ubiquitous in the US but
not so common in the UK. Use your favourite Peanut Butter and lie if
necessary. Peanut Butter and Caramel Ice Cream has my vote. You have
gotta love instructions that advise, “Squeeze on a good dose of caramel
sauce and ripple it through with a shimmy of the hand.”
Camp Coffee (this has nothing to do with the Gay movement) will revive
memories for anyone over the age of 50. It seemed the most common
coffee around and was the forerunner of instant powdered coffee. It’s a
combination of coffee, chicory and sugar and has long been recognised
(by my aunty Jackie) as the essential ingredient in moist layered
coffee cakes. The authors didn’t include my aunty's recipe but offer
Creamy Coffee Layer Cake, which is a very acceptable alternative.
The Branded Cookbook is an unexpectedly good and sensible recipe book.
The concept might, at first, seem strange but all the brands mentioned
have been around for decades because they are practical, flavourful and
reliable. I will feel no shame in using these recipes and I am sure
I’ll add a few ideas of my own. A brilliant gift.
The Branded Cookbook
Authors Nick Sandler and Johnny Acton
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-776-2
Cooking from the Heart of Spain
Janet Mendel is an American-born journalist and food writer who has penned several other books about the food ofSpain. My Kitchen in Spain was winner of the Andre Simon Award and was
short-listed for the Glenfiddich Food Book of the Year award. I have
already reviewed 
Traditional Spanish Cooking, Janet’s other book.
Cooking from the Heart of Spain is the title but where exactly is the
heart of Spain? Well, it’s La Mancha and although you might not be able
to stick a pin in a map and hit right upon it, I don’t doubt that you
would have heard of its produce... and Don Quixote.
La Mancha is a region that encompasses cities such as Toledo, Cuenca,
Ciudad Real and Guadalajara. Unless you have travelled away from the
Costas you probably wouldn’t realise that the REAL Spain in all its
culinary glory lays waiting for you. Manchego cheese (wonderful served
with quince paste), saffron, and Serrano ham are the products of this
area along with wine and olive oil. In short, the foods we think of as
typically Spanish are probably from La Mancha.
Janet shares nearly 200 recipes that give a flavour of all that the
Heart of Spain has to offer, everything from tapas to desserts. Almost
every recipe has a foreword which charmingly gives the cultural context
to the dish. Cooking from the Heart of Spain is not only a cookbook but
also a guide to food and its place in Spanish society.
The recipes have the solid and rustic feel of seasonal dishes. They are
simple to prepare from ingredients that are readily available in the
high street. Spanish Potato Tortilla has long been a favourite in tapas
bars but it makes a substantial and cheap family lunch. Tortilla with
Artichokes and Ham is another version that might be more appropriate
for a smart meal with friends. A recipe that is both posh and rustic,
if that is not an oxymoron.
Spain has winter and cold weather, so it’s no surprise to find such a
fine collection of warming soups and One-Pot Meals. La Mancha is also
the heart of garlic country, and Garlic Soup is said to be a good
hangover cure, although Don Quixote’s advice to his companion Sancho
Panza is...”Don’t eat garlic or onions, so that they don’t take you for
a peasant.” Glad we are more enlightened these days because Janet also
recommends the Double Garlic Soup!
Cooking from the Heart of Spain has dishes suitable for every occasion
and with so many fish and vegetable recipes, this is a book with broad
appeal. There is so much more to Spanish food than Paella, and Janet
Mendel acts as a guide through delicious and authentic alternatives.
Cooking from the Heart of Spain
Author: Janet Mendel
Published by: Frances Lincoln
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-0-7112-2873-3
Vinaigre – Sweet Taste of
More Success
I couldn't be more pleased to announce that on Friday 21st November
Alan Coxon's Historic Vinegars won the biggest accolade in the UK Hospitality
and Food industry, at the “Excellence in Food and Drink Awards”, an event held
at the Dorchester Hotel London.
Alan won not one but two awards including the Innovation
Award for all three vinegars, and he scooped the coveted Gold Award (Winner of
the Winners award).
There was a panel of 19 judges from within the food industry
who commented that “...they were so impressed with the trio that they went
straight to the top of the scoreboard scooping the Gold Award from all their
categories of winners!”
These vinegars are honestly worth seeking out. They are
unique, high-end products that are well regarded in professional kitchens but
are equally enjoyed by the home cook. Alan’s Historic Vinegars are such an easy
way to make a real difference to all kinds of dishes. I love 'em.
Alan Coxon is one of the most knowledgeable and talented
chefs around. He innovates and educates but seems to have far less publicity
than other less worthy individuals. We should surely prize professionalism and
hard work more highly than the ability to swear, criticize or look like a
kitchen-bound Adonis....although Alan does, of course, decorate a kitchen very
nicely!
Take a bit of time to read the product review but, more important,
go out and buy the vinegars!
Vinaigre – Sweet Taste of
Success!
It isn’t often I can say that there is a new food product that is
truly interesting and inspiring. There you go: the first sentence and I have
already lied to you – these are not new but hundreds or even thousands of years
old, and there’s not one of them but three.
Its Alan Coxon’s range of historic Vinegars. They cover centuries of
culinary development and knowledge. Ancient Greek Vinaigre, Roman period
Vinaigre and Mediaeval English Ale-Gar. (There are spice rubs from the same
periods soon to follow.)
Let’s start with the packaging. It’s impressive to look at. Greek
style glass amphora or flasks which not only have immense shelf appeal (“Look
Mum, that’s pretty!”) but also have a “feel” that gives the prospective
purchaser the expectation of a quality item, and they won’t be disappointed.
I asked Alan who was responsible for the design of the bottles. “I
myself designed the bottles as I wanted something that looked old but yet
modern, a contradiction in terms. When I looked around for readymade bottles
with a hint of historical relevance I felt they were all too archetypal, and I
didn`t want something that looked too Asterix or Disney. I therefore drew a
picture of what I wanted, obtained a glass blower to reproduce the "Look” and
re-mortgaged the house!”
“I had my bottle made into a mould at a cost of £22000 and then had to
order a million bottles to once again keep the cost down for the shopper. The
original cost of the bottle to me was £21.00 (before distribution costs, stores
mark up etc, etc.). Needless to say, I have managed to fight against the odds
and now sell the product direct from my website for £5.99 + p&p.”
How did you start to compile the recipes? Did it just take a lot of
reading to discover threads and themes, or are there still ancient recipes out
there?
“I started getting into food history about 15 years ago and whilst I
was doing some research for a TV show, something just came over me. There is not
one definitive book that gives you the answers, if there was it may have made
life so much easier; having said that I would still have sought out a challenge
somewhere along the line. The beauty about research is that you learn so many
more things as you go. There are no definitive recipes, and many of the recipes
you do find are in story form so it’s like putting a jigsaw together or solving
a crime that took place centuries ago.”
Alan Coxon is selling his Ancient Greek Vinaigre to Athenians! Now
that’s success and appreciation from people who would know what to look for.
There’s lots of interest in Japan and some of the most celebrated chefs in
Europe have praised this range as being not only unique but deserving of a place
in any modern kitchen.
James Martin, TV celebrity chef of Ready Steady Cook fame, says:
"Absolutely fantastic product, I'd like to sell the boxed set at my Winchester
Deli.” Gennaro Contaldo - La Passione Restaurant - is equally enthusiastic: "I
think that Alan Coxon's historic range tastes sublime. The quality and flavour
of the Ale-Gar is outstanding, I use it in my Guinea Fowl dish instead of
Balsamic now. The Roman is great in my salads as a dressing, and the Greek I use
in Marinades. Alan is truly a great chef, now he has some great products that I
will continue to use."
I had expected three bottles of balsamic-ish / wine-ish / malt-ish
sorts of vinegars but these are very different. Each one is surprisingly
distinctive. They are not much like the articles that you would have already
tried. There’s a host of flavoured vinegars out there but none with such complex
characteristics or depth.
Ale-Gar
Alan Coxon’s "Ale-Gar" is produced from an original recipe once brewed
in Mediaeval England. It’s hop-based rather than wine-based, with tones of
warming spices. It’s memories of smoky firesides in winter, and rich
foods.
Ale-Gar is the colour of a favourite Irish stout and is, of the three,
the one which most readily replaces ordinary balsamic. It does have a very
particular flavour that enhances red meat so well. We tasted this straight from
the bottle on both bread and a grilled steak. It’s an instant and very up-market
change from any Worcestershire sauce-based condiment.
Alan suggests that this would be great added to beef dishes such as a
bolognaise sauce, beef and venison casseroles; drizzled over oysters; reduced
and drizzled over strawberries, ice cream or with parmesan cheese. It is also
great when used in marinades or simply used as a dipping sauce for crusty bread
instead of a Balsamic.
Roman Vinaigre
Cinnamon is the predominant spice, but with hints of chamomile that
gives a good balance of flavour. It has the most wonderful rich scent and a
slight sweetness of honey. This would be a terrific glaze for roast pork or used
to dress chopped red onion as a relish with an Indian meal.
Outstanding!
The Roman Vinaigre is recommended as an addition to salad dressings;
as a dip for crusty bread with a dash of olive oil; added to hot butter or
egg-based sauces or as a marinade for pork or poultry.
Ancient Greek Vinaigre
This was the biggest surprise of the three. It’s light and floral with
a clean acidity but also a sweet aftertaste. It’s exotic and very different.
This spoke to me of rosewater-laced salads from Morocco. I mixed a little of
this with crème fraiche to make a dressing for beetroot to go with other North
African mezze and it was amazing, being both sweet and
sour.
Alan says, “This Vinaigre lends itself well to replace rice wine
vinegar in oriental stir-fries and soups, marinades, sweet and sour dishes,
salad dressings and hot and cold sauces. It’s fruity, fresh and fragrant –
naturally befitting any Greek Goddess.” Well, nice of you to say so, Alan! I’m
not Greek but I did find this one particularly
delicious.
Alan has said “I like to think of myself as an Indiana Jones of the
food world, dressed in a leather hat (of which I have two!) and an Indiana
Jones-style whip, or in my case a whisk!” ....It quite sets the female heart
beating! But all joking aside, these vinegars revisit long-gone culinary
traditions and allow us to replicate for ourselves the delicious flavours that
truly add “a taste of the past for the kitchens of the future.”
All three vinegars in Alan Coxon's Historic range should be available
at all quality food outlets. Ask the store manager if you can't find them. They
will also be available at www.alancoxon.com from 1st May.
Spice MarketI
spend much of my life reading and reviewing cookbooks and indeed
anything relating to food. I truly appreciate the hard work and passion
that results in a published volume, but Spice
Market is exceptional. It’s big, sumptuous, colourful and rich, and a
book that I find myself dipping into for no particular reason other
than to soak up its charm. 
The author, Jane Lawson, has been involved with food in one way or
another since the age of eight. She worked for many years as a chef in
Sydney but moved into publishing, which has allowed her to combine her
love of cookbooks and cooking. Jane is now the commissioning food
editor at Murdoch Books. She is the author of Grub, Yoshoku, A Little
Taste of Japan, and Cocina Nueva, as well as being co-author of BBQ
Food for Friends which won a Gourmand World Cookbook Award.
The photography by Natasha Milne and Alan Benson is marvellous and
combined with the two-tone pale grey and white pages gives Spice Market
a gift-quality feel. It has over 250 recipes which cover the whole
spectrum of dishes containing spices, from Beef with Spicy Chilli Crust
to Hot Cross Buns.
Spice Market has over 430 pages so it’s safe to assume that nothing
much is missing. It’s not only a gorgeous recipe book but it’s also a
reference book that manages to resist being dry and academic. Each
spice is described, and then it’s on to the recipes. A simple and
rather obscure spice like juniper has five recipes but pepper has
fourteen examples, with every colour of peppercorn represented.
It’s not just savoury dishes that rely on spice to give flavour and
sometimes colour. Chocolate Star Anise Cake with Coffee Caramel Cream
is a stunner. Sesame Halva Ice Cream makes an apt but unusual end to a
Moroccan meal. We all know that Custard Tart lacks a very important
something if there isn’t that characteristic sprinkle of nutmeg on the
top: Spice Market has a Peach and Custard Tart that elevates the
original to a memorable dessert.
There is a whole chapter devoted to spice pastes and another devoted to
spice mixes. These are the sections that make this book so inspiring.
There are blends here that are almost impossible to buy in shops unless
you have access to a good exotic market. Berber Spice Mix is wonderful
with all kinds of lamb dishes, Dukkah is an Egyptian staple and mostly
used with oil as a dip for bread. Panch Phora is aromatic and gives an
authentic taste of Bengal to simple dishes like fried potatoes. I’d buy
this book for the Spice Mix chapter alone.
Spice Market is splendid and I’ll not only enjoy leafing through its
pages but also cooking its mouth-watering recipes and learning more
about delicious blends. It’s a treat!
Spice Market
Author: Jane Lawson
Published by: Murdoch Books
Price: £18.99
ISBN 978-1741960389
Student Cookbook – Healthy Eating
Ester Davies had penned a Student Cookbook that will honestly help those recently-fledged young people. Why? Because they will read this book. It’s no good handing out copies of
your favourite glossy, chefy recipe book, or Xeroxed sheets of
instructions for how to make your grannie’s foie gras-stuffed quail.
Students (and this book works well for anyone of any age who is
culinarily challenged) need to start with the basics.
Ester has a chatty, conversational style of writing that encourages you
to feel that eating well isn’t, after all, going to be rocket science
(or these days, media studies with a gap year in Nepal). It’s all easy
stuff but you need to be pointed in the right direction by someone who
knows about nutrition, but who equally knows that the food must taste
good.
Student Cookbook – Healthy Eating starts with store cupboard essentials
and equipment. There is everything here from saving money to avoiding
food poisoning. The temperature and weight conversion charts are handy
and Ester has thoughtfully added a glossary of cookery terms to
demystify the whole process.
The chapters shepherd you from Cooking Basics to Entertaining, with all
the nutritional information you will need to make healthy choices.
There is plenty of advice on lifestyle changes to reduce stress and
even what to do when you get a cold. The item on Improving Your Mood
will be of particular interest to those who are in shared
accommodation, and advice about eating take-aways indicates that the
author truly does live in the real world.
The recipes are brilliant. They are easy to follow, well written and
it’s just the sort of food that most of us would enjoy eating. There
are plenty of dishes for vegetarians including Vegetable
Toad-in-the-Hole, Chickpea and Spinach Curry (yes, you can use a can of
chickpeas), Roasted Vegetables and Couscous, and lots more.
It’s a Healthy Eating cookbook but it’s not over-worthy and preachy.
The ever-popular Spag Bol has its place but it’s a low fat version with
whole-wheat pasta. Bangers and Mash and Cottage Pie are also given the
low fat treatment and there is even a low fat Bacon Buttie!
Student Cookbook – Healthy Eating is a thoroughly practical but
engaging book. It might well be more often used than the text books!
Think about this as a Christmas gift for anyone going back to
university or leaving home. Great value for money.
Student Cookbook – Healthy Eating
Author: Ester Davies
Published by: Need-2-Know
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-1-86144-061-7
Buonissimo!
This is the second book by Gino D’Acampo. His first,
Fantastico, won the Gourmand Cookbook Award for the Best Italian
Cookbook in the World. It’s safe to say that the lad described
as the Italian Stallion by UKTV Food’s irreplaceable Jeni Barnett has a
good idea about what makes a popular cookbook. 
Buonissimo is the latest offering from this young man. He has, I must
admit, a certain sexy charm. He has that tee-shirted,
designer-stubbled, southern look which some women find so attractive...
OK, OK, so he decorates his books very well, but I’ll drag myself away
and focus on the food.
This is a stylish volume with photography by Kate Whitaker who does a
lovely job as usual. It presents recipes for just one person, a
romantic couple, everyday suppers, easy but impressive recipes, and
party food. Gino introduces some personal notes that add a little
insight into the character of this man – a family man who appreciates
the need for comforting meals for kids as well as classy dishes for
formal evenings.
The recipes reflect modern tastes as you would expect from a young
chef, but he is mindful of time constraints. There are plenty that are
Italian in concept but others that are more international, like Curried
Beans and Hot and Spicy Chick Peas. The book is no worse for those
inclusions. This is, after all, the fashion of British eating.
It’s difficult to choose just a couple of recipes to illustrate the
style of Buonissimo. The dishes are diverse but delicious with an
unfussy, non-chefy look. Roasted Onions in Rosemary and Balsamic
Vinegar are a traditional antipasti or a smart side dish for roast
meats.
I enjoy both cooking and eating risotto of any kind, and Gino has a
great example here: Risotto with Parma Ham and Vin Santo. You can
substitute the Vin Santo with another medium white wine. This dish is
not difficult to make but I think it’s good enough as a meal for
friends at the weekend.
Limoncello and Lime Granita is a stunner! Any make-ahead recipe gets
lots of points from me. Gino suggests this as a palate-cleanser between
savoury courses. I’d be happy with this at the end of a rich or heavy
meal or even just as a refreshing interlude on a hot (it could happen)
summer afternoon.
Perhaps I should end by mentioning Gino’s Playboy Eggs! It’s got your
imagination working but I’ll tell you that it’s just a cheeky name for
a trendy breakfast of eggs, bacon, mushrooms and cheese. Served in a
cup as Gino recommends, this would make a very special late morning
snack. Perhaps that should have been included in the Romantico Chapter!
Buonissimo is bound to be as successful as Fantastico. Both the food and the author look great!
Buonissimo!
Author: Gino D’Acampo
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-807-3
Curry – Classic and Contemporary
You already know, dear reader, that I have a passion for Indian food so it’s no surprise that I, once again, feature a
book about the dishes of the subcontinent. This, however, is a little
different from the previously reviewed cookbooks, as its focus is on
future trends, as well as including lesser-known classic dishes.
The author, Vivek Singh, is the executive chef at the celebrated
Cinnamon Club in Westminster and the Cinnamon Kitchen in the City. He
has previously penned The Cinnamon Club Cookbook and The Cinnamon Club
Seafood Cookbook. Curry – Classic and Contemporary is a marvellous
showcase for this man’s talent and unique perspective.
But what is Curry? We all think we know. We go out “for a curry”,
“let's get a take-away curry”. But in reality it’s an Anglo term for
any kind of Indian food. It seems that most Indians would be rather
amused by our notion of all Indian food being “curry” (or
horrified at our ignorance). It seems that the misconception dates back
to the British officers of the East India Company. These chaps spent
their whole lives in India but couldn’t speak the language so when
asked, the cooks would tell the officers that it was “curry” tonight
rather than trying to educate the daft sahibs about the delicious array
of other diverse dishes.
The recipes here are striking. I recognise the classics like Jungle
Curry, Beef Bhuna, Lamb Rogan Josh, but there are many more that are
new to me and very appealing. Nargisi Kofta Curry was a popular
restaurant favourite in the 60s and 70s but has fallen out of favour as
it’s a complex recipe for mass catering. It’s an Indian version of a
scotch egg (boiled egg with a meat crust) served with an aromatic
sauce. Those army officers in India would recognise this one.
I love Raan (leg of lamb) and Vivek has two versions. The Modern Raan
is tunnel-boned and stuffed and makes the most wonderful presentation
for a meal for friends. It’s a dish that takes a bit of work but you’ll
find it’s well worth the trouble. The spices permeate the meat which
will be succulent and flavourful. Your house will have a fabulous aroma
that will excite your guests’ taste buds before they even sit at the
table.
Curry – Classic and Contemporary is filled with recipes that are both
of the moment and authentic. I am impressed and will enjoy cooking my
way through every dish. A delight.
Curry – Classic and Contemporary
Author: Vivek Singh
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £20.00
ISBN 9-781904-573883
Sauces – Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making
This is another amazing book from John Wiley publishers. They might not
be the most celebrated of cookbook publishers but the food-related
books that they present are some of the best around, and Sauces is
included in that list.
You know that any book, cookery or otherwise, that reaches its third
edition has got to be worth looking into. James Peterson deserves
to be proud of Sauces – Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making. It’s
not only popular with the cookbook-reading public but it has also won
the prestigious James Beard Foundation Award. This amazing volume is
even used in culinary colleges and schools as a teaching aid.
Don’t be put off by the size of this book. It’s true that it’s as big
as a small piece of furniture but it’s as big as that for a good
reason. There isn’t any padding in Sauces. It’s cover-to-cover solid
information that will be welcomed by anyone wanting to perfect
sauce-making. Nothing seems to be omitted or overlooked. Every
imaginable sauce is described, including Asian Sauces which have been
added since the publication of the first edition.
There is, unsurprisingly, still a French bias but the book is no worse
for that. Those sauces have a structure that enables flexibility and
adaptation, and that’s the reason the methods have become classic. The
contemporary sauces reflect modern tastes for lighter and healthier
dishes where cream is less evident.
The book has a marvellous chapter on Pasta Sauces. James takes as much
care over his catalogue of Pasta Shapes (over 30 in all) as he does
over the pasta dressing, and these are not necessarily rich,
tomato-based and complicated. It’s more about flavour of fresh
ingredients and subtle combinations. Spaghetti with Clams or Mussels
offers the choice of a cream or olive oil base, although Fettuccine and
Shrimp with Crustacean Cream Sauce sticks to the luxurious and classic
heavy (double) cream.
Desserts are not forgotten and the selection here is enough to make me
quit my diet. Butterscotch Sauce is so delightful that I doubt it will
get as far as garnishing a dessert - I’ll be eating it from the pan
with a spoon.
Sauces – Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making is bound to become a
culinary icon. It has been so well received since its first
publication. Its admirers are not only professionals but include
ordinary folk who enjoy good food and want to present
restaurant-quality meals. Any serious cook will want to own this book.
Sauces – Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making
Author: James Peterson
Published by: John Wiley
Price: £29.99
ISBN 978-0-470-19496-6
The Chinese Kitchen
“ ... People who know Deh-ta say that he is one terrific chef, a chap who makes spectacular banquets, and one
outstanding culinary host... If you do not already know this prolific
author’s publications, you must! You need to try his recipes and learn
from him. You will not be disappointed...” (The Institute for the
Advancement of the Science and Art of Chinese Cuisine.)
Deh-ta Hsiung must be one of the authors most qualified to pen an
encyclopaedia of Chinese ingredients, for that is exactly what The
Chinese Kitchen represents. It’s a comprehensive and thoroughly
engaging volume that will add to your knowledge of some foods and
introduce you to others.
The formula for The Chinese Kitchen is that used by Kyle Cathie for
several of their other publications, and it’s a style that works very
well. Each ingredient is described, everything from growing to storing,
and then on to culinary uses and recipes. Always well illustrated
(around 300 photographs in this particular volume), these books
demystify ethnic cooking and encourage us to take advantage of the
amazing variety of ingredients available these days.
Apart from being a definitive guide to the Chinese store cupboard, The
Chinese Kitchen offers over 200 recipes which will tempt you away from
the local take-away and into the local Asian market. The recipes are
not difficult to prepare and they are authentic and irresistible. You
could do worse than to carry this book with you to the Chinese
supermarket. Your filled shopping basket will, no doubt, impress the
lady on the till who will rightly suppose that tonight’s dinner will be
a marvellous affair.
You’ll want to cook your carefully selected purchases, and there is a
dish here for every taste. Bean Curd is an example of a popular Chinese
ingredient and there is a lovely recipe for Sichuan Spicy Bean Curd.
Any dish cooked in the Sichuan fashion is bound to be punchy and
flavourful and this version uses chilli bean paste and Sichuan
peppercorns to supply the heat.
Ken Hom says of The Chinese Kitchen: “I trust that this major culinary
work from the masterchef himself will be a proud companion to your
Chinese cookery books as well as being a standard reference.” That’s a
fantastic accolade from one of the best about one of the best and I
couldn’t put it better myself.
The Chinese Kitchen
Author: Deh-ta Hsiung
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-702-1
Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker Recipes
And now, dear reader, for something completely different! This is all
about cooking method, or I could more reasonably say it’s about making
the most delicious food using a particular cooking method. The clue is
in the title: Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker Recipes. The
Pressure Cooker element is self-explanatory, but who is the
aforementioned Miss Vickie?
Miss Vickie Smith is the foremost authority on pressure cooking. She
has an amazingly popular web site (MissVickie.com) devoted to the
subject. It has been visited more than 2 million times since 2001. That
statistic alone is enough to encourage me to explore the world of
pressure cooking. There must be a reason for all this interest.
Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker Recipes is the most
comprehensive work on the subject. It’s a hefty tome containing nearly
400 recipes, a buyer’s guide (handy for those of us who are swelling
the ranks of the clueless), instructions, adapting your favourite
recipes, and safety (Aunty Jean from next door would not even visit if
my mum was using her pressure cooker).
A pressure cooker ought to be considered as the latest “green” kitchen
gadget. Think about it: it takes a fraction of the normal time to cook
dried beans or large cuts of meat, and you can have mashed potatoes in
five minutes. Less cooking time equals less fuel which translates into
smaller gas or electricity bills for the already financially stretched
household. Factor in the time saved by using this ultra-quick method
and the whole proposition is starting to look attractive.
The UK seems to be rather backward with regard to this type of cooking.
Every French household has a well-used pressure cooker and many Indian
housewives will own two. If you are a vegetarian or a budget-conscious
carnivore then you will find it an indispensible part of your kitchen
battery. Chickpeas will be soft in minutes and cheaper joints of meat
will be rendered tender and succulent in no time at all.
Miss Vickie’s recipes are mouthwatering. It’s very evident that the
author is USA-based so there are just a couple of ingredients that you
might struggle to find, such as particular chillies (although South Devon Chilli Farm has a marvellous selection of chillies that could easily be substituted). You’ll need to know that cilantro is coriander.
Salisbury Steak with Mushroom Gravy is an American classic and a great
family dish. It takes less than ten minutes in the pressure cooker plus
a little extra time for preparation and finishing. You can feed the
kids and your hard-working wife in less than half an hour. 8 Minute
Chili will be another winner and it only takes... umm.. 8 minutes!
Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker Recipes is the “must have”
cookbook for anyone who wants to feel confident about choosing and
using a pressure cooker. It’s persuaded me to take another look. Great
value for money.
Miss Vickie’s Big Book of Pressure Cooker Recipes
Author: Vickie Smith
Published by: John Wiley and Sons
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-0-7645-0726-8
Good Old-Fashioned Jams, Preserves and Chutneys
Even the title of this book fills you with a warm feeling of comfort. Good Old-Fashioned Jams, Preserves and
Chutneys is an old-fashioned and charming cookbook with text in sepia
tones and photography by Tara Fisher. Clearly-written recipes and a bit
of history with many of them is a nice touch in a National Trust book.
Sara Paston-Williams is a celebrated author and broadcaster. Her books
include Good Old-Fashioned Puddings. She has a wealth of experience of
traditional recipes which are now finding an appreciative audience
among a new generation of cooks who want to make the best of fruit and
vegetables when in season.
Apart from the aforementioned Jams and Chutneys there are plenty of
interesting and classy preserves. The Pickles chapter offers
modern-sounding recipes that include Pickled Chillies, Spiced
Blackberries, and Spiced Orange Slices. All of these are simple to make
and would be lovely Christmas gifts.
If you have a taste for the more exotic then there are Preserved Lemons
which will look stunning in large glass jars. They are expensive to buy
in the deli but you can make them yourself with a few spices and some
coarse sea salt. They are delicious and add a truly authentic touch to
many Moroccan Tagines.
Perhaps the most quintessentially English recipe has got to be that of
Trelissick Lemon Curd. Trelissick is a National Trust property near
Falmouth in Cornwall, where this curd is a filling for homemade lemon
sponge. What could be nicer for breakfast, though, than some thick-cut
toast and Lemon Curd or Blackberry Curd, or the tangy Strawberry and
Orange Curd?
Mincemeat is another uniquely British confection and it’s true that
Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas without it. There is a Traditional
recipe here but also some variations that are well worth trying. Cherry
and Walnut Mincemeat encased in philo pastry would add a more
continental flavour, and Pear and Fig Mincemeat is flexible as you can
substitute dates for figs and use rum, whisky, sherry or cider instead
of brandy.
Good Old-Fashioned Jams, Preserves and Chutneys is a book of solid,
well-written recipes that will encourage you to fill your larder with
the best that each season has to offer. The jars will look amazing and
the contents will persuade you that home-made is best.
Good Old-Fashioned Jams, Preserves and Chutneys
Author: Sara Paston-Williams
Published by: Anova- National Trust
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-905400-70-6
Moveable Feasts
You know, dear reader, that I’ll write about anything to do with food
and kitchens. Well, this book, Moveable Feasts – What to Eat and How to
Cook it in the Great Outdoors, supplies lots of information on food but
not much on kitchens. It’s about campsite cooking and would be an ideal
companion for the woodsy sorts who love mountain biking, climbing,
hiking, fell running (can never understand the appeal) and those who
like living in a tent.
Moveable Feasts is a surprisingly interesting book, even for me who has
certificates for enjoying comfortable lodgings and non-inflatable beds.
The authors, Amy-Jane Beer and Roy Halpin, have written a veritable
handbook for anyone who wants to eat well whilst surrounded by
countryside, and there is plenty here that will be useful for the less
adventurous who have a caravan in tow.
The book is divided in two, with the first part being devoted to
practical insights into choosing energy-giving foods, building a fire
pit and avoiding water-borne illness. If you stay well long enough
you’ll appreciate reading the second part, which presents nearly one
hundred recipes, designed to be made with only limited equipment. All
measurements are by volume so you don’t need to cart around a set of
kitchen scales.
The recipes are a real surprise and I couldn’t imagine how there could
be nearly one hundred dishes made over an open fire - perhaps one
hundred sausages (organic or vegetarian)? Not a bit of it! This is
great food and fun to make. How about Sponge Cake cooked in a camp oven
(information in this book), or Cheesecake? Thai Curry has got to be the
smart face of outdoor eating, and you can invite the folks from the
tent next door when you cook Garlic Mussels.
It’s not only food for those who treat their bodies like temples, it’s
equally food that kids will love to eat and will probably want to cook.
The notes on gathering wild ingredients (no, not Farmer Brown’s bull)
are fascinating and will add another dimension to your trip.
Moveable Feasts is a well-written volume with sensible advice to enable
you to eat well and safely when away from home. Even I am tempted to go
camping... in the south of Spain next summer!
Moveable Feasts
Authors: Amy-Jane Beer and Roy Halpin
Published by: Cicerone
Price: £14.95
ISBN 978-1-85284-534-6
Tapas
Who wouldn’t love little dishes of delectable morsels? That’s the charm of tapas, lots of different tastes and
textures. Tapas, the book that is, has pictures by one of my favourite
food photographers. Any book that Gus Filgate is associated with is
bound to be stunning. 
Tapas is the flagship book of the celebrated restaurant El Parador. Both authors can cook every dish on the
restaurant menu so it’s safe to say they know what they are talking
about. Carlos Horrillo and Patrick Morcas have penned these lovely
recipes that transport me back to Spain, to tapas bars with high
counters groaning under the weight of an amazing variety of dishes.
Presenting a meal of tapas is just about the most casual form of
entertaining. It’s convivial and a real ice-breaker, with everyone
taking a little of this, a spoonful of that. It’s the culinary version
of painting by numbers with each guest eating their choices in
different combinations. It’s an ideal way of feeding lots of people
with diverse tastes.
If you or your friends are vegetarian then you might feel that you have
been short-changed with regard to dinner parties. There often seems to
be a rather naff veggie option for non-meat eaters, and there are
plenty of carnivores who don’t feel as though they have eaten unless an
animal of some description had been sacrificed. Tapas, however, offers
such a fantastic selection of dishes that you are bound to find lots to
satisfy every dietary, cultural or ethical need.
It’s no surprise to see Tortilla Espanola (potato omelette) in the
Vegetables chapter and this is lovely when made well. Serve it hot and
fresh from the pan. Patatas Bravas are another staple of tapas bars and
they are always popular and simple. Spinach and Cheese Parcels are a
favourite at El Parador but this version uses ready-rolled pastry so
it’s an easy one for the home cook.
There is so much here that is stylish and seriously easy and that’s got
to be good. Purée de Habas Verdes (puréed broad beans
with pan-fried garlic, rosemary and olive oil) has a real flavour of
southern sunshine. It has eight cloves of garlic - don’t be tempted to
cut down on that number. Even easier are the Fresh Marinated Anchovies
which only demand a little chopping of garlic and parsley. That’s two
tapas quickly sorted long before your guests arrive.
The fish dishes in Tapas are just as I remember them. There are plenty
of squid but, for the less adventurous, mussels, prawns, scallops and
even smoked haddock which could be welcomed by those who get anxious
about “foreign food”. Hake Deep-fried in a Light Beer Batter is so good
that you’ll be advised to make a double batch, and Char-grilled
Sardines will tempt almost anyone when that distinctive and
mouth-watering aroma wafts from the barbeque.
My favourite recipe in Tapas is for Chicken Croquettes. They will be
familiar to anyone who has eaten in tapas bars either in Spain or the
UK. It’s authentic and comforting and a dish that works well as part of
a regular meal with a green salad and some tomatoes. Ham can be
substituted for the chicken, or even vegetables - a flexible and
delicious dish.
Tapas is a cracker of a cookbook. I am so impressed that I’ll probably
be having tapas parties for quite a while. The recipes are suitable for
summer al fresco eating, but equally for cold nights in with some fine
sherry or a nice bottle of red. Hope we hear more from Carlos Horrillo
and Patrick Morcas in the future.
Tapas
Authors: Carlos Horrillo and Patrick Morcas
Published by Kyle Cathie
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-806-6
A Kitchen Year
You might not recognise the name Paula McIntyre but she is, in fact,
one of Northern Ireland’s top chefs. Paula trained at the Johnson and
Wales Culinary Arts School in the USA before opening the award-winning
Undrie restaurant in Manchester. She now gives private and corporate
cooking lessons at Ghan House, Carlingford in Northern Ireland. But
perhaps her finest hour was beating Paul Rankin on Ready, Steady Cook.
A Kitchen Year is Paula’s first book although she is an accomplished
food writer and broadcaster. It’s a light and airy volume with
marvellous photography by Hugh McElveen. The focus is on fresh and
local ingredients and the changes that each new season brings. It’s a
popular theme these days but that’s the way it should be if you have
any regard for yourself or the environment.
The book is divided, as you would expect, by month and the recipes are
well chosen. Paula has a good selection of dishes for both meat eaters
and vegetarians. There are traditional favourites but the overall
impression is of contemporary, healthy and delicious. The food isn’t
over-chefy but is smart, and practical for the home cook.
January starts with an international flavour of Chorizo and Potato
Empanadas served with Roast Garlic, Red Onion and Chilli Mojo. It might
sound complicated but the Mojo is made in advance so you can have a
stylish starter or snack in no time.
Sarbled Fadge sounds like something from Edward Lear who penned such
gems as The Dong with a Luminous Nose and The Akond of Swat. It is, in
fact, traditional potato bread which has the unique addition of a
little polenta or maize meal. It might not seem very Irish but maize
meal was sent from America at the time of the famine.
We should all eat more fish, and Moroccan-Spiced Mackerel is tempting.
The seasoning is cardamom, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, cumin seeds
and smoked paprika. Gone are the days of cheap fish but at least the
humble mackerel is a reasonable price and it’s one of those oily fish
that is so good for your health.
A Kitchen Year offers some truly different and delightful dishes.
Festive Spiced Ham Terrine with Pomegranate Molasses Dressing might be
a bit of a mouthful but you could use leftover ham to cut down on the
preparation - another great make-ahead starter for Christmas. And
talking of Christmas, how about White Chocolate, Orange and Cranberry
Fudge? It looks festive and tastes luxurious with a hint of Grand
Marnier. Paula says this fudge will last for up to two weeks. I don’t
think so!
A Kitchen Year is a book full of innovation and I personally love
Paula’s choice of recipes. The food reflects modern tastes and it’s
bound to become a popular seasonal cookbook. Paula McIntyre should be
proud. I look forward to more books but this one will be hard to beat.
A Kitchen Year
Author: Paula McIntyre
Published by: Gill and Macmillan
Price: £ 14.99, €18.99
ISBN 978-0-7171-4321-4
Student Cookbook
Sam Stern is a young but already experienced cookbook author. When I say “young” I mean YOUNG! He is still a
teenager but has the handsome fresh face of a ten-year-old. However,
read his book and you realise that the lad should be considered an
author first, and one with a remarkable future.
Perhaps student cookbooks could be divided into two distinct groups.
There are those that are chosen by parents (probably mums) for the
soon-to-exit youth, and those that will appeal more directly to, and be
purchased by, the students themselves. Sam Stern’s Student Cookbook
falls into the second category, although I am sure those book-buying
mums will understand the draw.
Student Cookbook is a square format, colourful volume, crammed with
marvellous pictures of food and Sam. The text is clear and the recipes
simple to follow. It’s a book aimed at the virgin cook... er, um, that
is someone who is new to cooking. None of the dishes will fill the
debutante with terror.
OK, the book is as good-looking as the author but how about the food?
There is little point in investing in a recipe book that will stay on
the shelf along with your Manga magazines. These look like just the
sorts of dishes that will tempt those hard-working students into the
kitchenette.
The food here is, for the most part, healthy without being worthy. It
doesn’t seem like the usual student food of strange combinations,
dishes of 3 ingredients one of which will be either chocolate or
Marmite. This is sensible stuff that anyone would enjoy eating -
snacks, soups, pasta, puddings, as well as veggies, meat and fish.
Each recipe is marked with a price symbol. A single £ sign
indicates “skint/saving” and £££ is for the day your
aunty sends you a bit of birthday money. Other markers let you know if
the dish is suitable for vegetarians, how many it feeds, and if it’s
fast to cook. It’s an easy way to find suitable choices at a glance.
The Noodles chapter offers Chop Suey Noodles with 4 symbols. It feeds
2, it’s good for those “skint” days, it’s fine for vegetarians and fast
to cook. I am sure the book will naturally fall open at this page after
a while.
Student cannot live by noodles alone, and puds are always cheering. How
about Apple and Banana Hot Sugared Doughnuts? Easy to make but
impressive as a dessert or late-night munchies. This recipe feeds 1 to
2 (probably 1 so make a double batch), it’s cheap, vegetarian and fast.
Sam’s cookbook will have young people cooking for themselves but also
for friends and family. There are smart dishes as well as quick and
casual meals. This is all about surviving in style on a budget. Cooking
should be fun so buy this book and eat some lovely food. Great value
for money.
Student Cookbook
Author: Sam Stern
Published by: Walker Books
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-4063-0818-1
The Bollywood Cookbook
This book is stuffed with the best looking people around. The author,
Bulbul Mankani, introduces us to the glamorous world of the Indian film
industry and it has a dreamlike quality. These actors and actresses are
almost too good to be true and if you believe that they eat these
wonderful dishes every day then I for one will sign up for the Gulab
Jamun Diet. But more of that later.
I confess, dear reader, that I don’t know much of Bollywood and its
films. They seem to be a confection of colour, vibrance, song and
dance, and probably preferable to the offering of blood and guts which is so often the genre of choice for western film-goers.
Bollywood films have elevated film stars to superhuman and sometimes
god-like status so it’s no surprise that there is a market for a
cookbook to allow us a little peek into the eating habits of these
famed folk. It’s not just the stars that look good; the food is
mouth-watering as well. You wouldn’t expect the beautiful people of
Mumbai to be tucking into chip butties, would you?
Although I can’t reel off the names of Indian film stars as if I was
reading the local telephone directory, I can at least recognise a few
of the most celebrated of the 19 or so featured in this volume. The
Kapoors are perhaps one of the most famous dynasties and they offer
Chicken Haleem and Yuglee Mutton. Another clan who has made film their
business is the Bachchan family, who present us with Hara Channa Masala
amongst others.
If you are a non-film-going European you might still recognise the name
Shilpa Shetty. Didn’t she do rather well on one of those “reality”
shows? Shilpa has a taste for Sukha Lamb and Spicy Beans, but for me
the best recipe has to be from Raveena Tandon. Gulab Jamun is a dessert
of melt-in-the-mouth balls of sweet syrup-soaked sponge and to know
them is to love them. Raveena is an expert at making these and can
recite the recipe from memory. That is surely the sign of a well-loved
dish.
The Bollywood Cookbook has authentic Indian food aplenty. The 75 or so
recipes are divine and not over-taxing for even a British home cook,
and this is a book of style and excitement. I already have friends who
want to borrow it and I suspect I’ll have to fight to get it back.
The Bollywood Cookbook
Author: Bulbul Mankani
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-765-6
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"The
biggest seller is cookbooks and second is diet books - how not to eat what
you've just learnt to cook!"
Andy Rooney
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