Vegetarian Cooking – A Commonsense Guide
Before I go into a detailed review of Vegetarian Cooking – A
Commonsense Guide I should tell you that this has got to be the most
user-friendly volume that has crossed this writer’s desk (OK, so it’s a
kitchen worktop on legs!) in ages. It’s a chunky ring-bound book that
really opens and stays open. One recipe and a great photo on each page.
What more can a working hands-on cook ask for?What this cook can ask for is a selection of vegetarian recipes that live up to the expectations raised by the book’s general presentation. They do, and there is also an abundance of information, not only about vegetarian cooking but about achieving a balanced diet.
You don’t have to be a card-carrying vegetarian to make good use of this book. This is just good food that doesn’t include meat. It isn’t a vegan cookbook although there are plenty of recipes that would be suitable for a vegan diet. There is so much here that is rich and decadent that you won’t feel you are making any sacrifices by following the vegetarian path.
This book has recipes to suit all skill levels but I couldn’t find anything that would make even a beginner over-anxious. The choice of ingredient combinations is what makes these dishes work, rather than complicated cooking techniques. The recipes have been tested to destruction by those nice people at Murdoch so you know they will work.
And so to the recipes! There are lots here that are lip-smacking delicious. Chinese Broccoli with Ginger, Lime and Peanuts is from the Noodles and Stir-Fries chapter and it couldn’t be easier. Phad Thai will be familiar to many of you and there is a good recipe here, but the star for me is Rice Noodles with Ginger and Sweet Chilli Vegetables. It’s spicy and exotic but quick to prepare.
About now you’ll be thinking of warming winter casseroles (you have probably been doing that since August). There is a whole section devoted to Casseroles, Curries and Bakes. These are robust and comforting dishes that will satisfy the heartiest of eaters. Lentil Bhuja Casserole is a flavourful dish of lentil “meatballs” and a rich Indian-inspired creamy sauce. It’s a one-pot meal so all you’ll need is some Naan bread on the side.
This isn’t an over-worthy tome to encourage self-denial. This is a recipe book for real people who like luscious puds with sugar and CREAM! Yes, you heard right! Vegetarian Cooking – A Commonsense Guide isn’t a diet book, it’s all about good food and sensible eating, so tuck into some of these desserts... from time to time. How about Banana Fritters with Coconut Batter? Baked Almond and Marzipan Peaches would be a pretty and tasty end to a smart dinner for friends.
Vegetarian Cooking – A Commonsense Guide is a gem of a book that will be appreciated by anyone who loves cooking and good food... it just happens to be vegetarian.
Vegetarian Cooking – A Commonsense Guide
Author: Murdoch Books
Published by: Murdoch Books
Price: £10.99
ISBN 978-1741961232
The Golden Book of Chocolate
This has got to be the gift book of the year. It has impact in both size and quality of presentation. It’s sumptuous
with gilt-edged pages reminiscent of a family bible. Those nice people
at Apple Press informed me that this volume came with a gold belly
jacket. I was pleased... er,um, but what was that? It’s a lovely dust
jacket that nicely wraps the ample midriff of this magnificent volume.That’s the exterior oooohs and aaahs out of the way. Unless you are buying this book only to put something sparkly on your bookshelf, you’ll want to know about all that’s inside. The photography by Alan Benson is a treat. You can imagine piling on the calories by just looking at all these sweet delights.
The introduction is fascinating and pertinent. It considers not only the history of the Swiss Nestlé, Lindt and Mr. Tobler (yes, the man who invented Toblerone) but also our own Green and Blacks who earned the UK’s first Fair Trade Mark for its Maya Gold chocolate.
There are over 300 recipes here so it’s safe to say that there is something for everyone. There are Candies and Cookies, Puddings and Pies but also Savoury Dishes that might come as a bit of a surprise. The recipes are easy to follow and offer lots of choice for home cooks of every level of skill and confidence.
One of the simplest recipes is Coffee Granita with Cream and Chocolate. It’s one of those perfect make-ahead desserts that are ideal for meals with friends. Served in shot glasses or small tumblers, it makes a sophisticated end to an evening. You only need to be slightly more adventurous to manage Milk Chocolate and Vanilla Semifreddo, which is a two-layer frozen pud in white and beige.
The Drinks chapter has a lot more than the predictable cocoa. Brown Cow has white rum, crème de menthe and crème de cacao. Served in an elegant stemmed glass, this would be a warming, rich cocktail for a winter party, a liquid version of a very adult after-dinner mint.
The Golden Book of Chocolate can only be described as special. It oozes luxury and it’s bound to make an impression with anyone lucky enough to receive a copy. Lovely!
The Golden Book of Chocolate
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £19.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-267-6
India – One Man’s Personal Journey Round the Subcontinent
This is a unique perspective from a west London lad who takes a voyage
of discovery, a voyage to discover heritage, roots, amazing differences
and surprising commonality. Sanjeev Bhaskar has straddled both British
and Indian societies with their many complexities and contradictions. Sanjeev had a childhood to which so many of us can relate. Home was a maisonette above a laundrette and under the Heathrow flight path. I can still remember the distinctive aroma of the paraffin stove that was the “heater of choice” for his family and so many others in the 1960s. Not everything was cold, grey and gloomy – the fish and chip shop was just next door!
The long family holidays spent in New Delhi seemed to the young Sanjeev to be a catalogue of discomfort, with intermittent water supply and mosquitoes that had a penchant for English take-away. Telephones were rare and air conditioning wasn’t an option, but how times have changed - twenty years later India is a world leader in biotechnology and pharmaceutical research, it has the world’s largest radio telescope and is at last taking its place in the international arena in so many other areas. India still manages to hold to its traditions, a task that would seem impossible to maintain under the onslaught of technology and modernity.
Sanjeev is famed for his comedic portrayal of Indians in the UK and for hosting Delhi Belly, a food travelogue with restaurateur Reza Mahammad. You would expect him to write a light and witty book, and India is very much that. It’s also filled with honest and sometimes painful observation. There is a story of tragedy here that also speaks of strength, forgiveness and hope for the future.
On a humorous note our hero is invited to the birthday party of His Royal Highness Rajeshwar Saramad-i-Rajha-i-Hindustan Mahararjadhiraja Maharajah Shri GAJ SINGHJI II Sahib Bahadur Singh. Sanjeev wonders “Gosh, what do we sing when we get to ‘Happy Birthday dear....?’ He had no need to worry as it was “Happy Birthday dear Bapji” and the dear man even handed Sanjeev a slice of his cake.
India – One Man’s Personal Journey Round the Subcontinent is a book that will take you through the whole spectrum of emotion but it’s equally a book that will be thoroughly enjoyed by those of us who love India in all its myriad facets.
India – One Man’s Personal Journey Round the Subcontinent
Author: Sanjeev Bhaskar
Published by: HarperCollins
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-0-00-724739-4
Miniature Feasts
Celebrated private chef Michael Harwood has years of experience catering to the smart party set from LA to San
Moritz. “Standing up is the new sitting down” is a phrase that sums up
the style of entertaining that is presented in this gorgeous book. The
photography by Steve McCallum shows Michael’s food in amazing close-up.Feeding people can be a dread or a delight but if you find some great recipes, some unique ideas and some fine ingredients then you are a long way down the road to throwing a bash that will be memorable for your friends and painless for you.
We are all more sophisticated these days, with higher expectations. Most of us will be a bit disappointed if we are invited to a party where the food consists of nothing more exciting than pizza bites, cocktail sausages and sausage rolls, all of which you recognise from the freezer shop – the same ones you use! Miniature Feasts is a tool that will enable you to give your friends a tapestry of taste and visual charm.
There is so much here that is innovative. Beer-battered Oysters with a shot of Bloody Mary will be sure to lend your soirée a classy edge. These little molluscs will be inviting to even your most squeamish guests. We all love anything deep-fried and this cooking method takes away the daunting prospect of chewing on anything slimy, alive and probably thinking.
If old habits are hard to break and you still feel the need for a sausage roll then Moroccan Spiced Lamb Sausage Rolls should fit the bill. They will give you the feeling of safe familiarity but elevate the humble original into something memorable. They are not difficult to produce as Michael has given you permission to use ready-rolled puff pastry. He obviously lives in the real world.
Miniature Feasts offers so many mouth-watering morsels but the highlight for me must be Little Shepherd’s Pies Topped with Lancashire Cheese Mash. This is such a traditional dish but presented in this way it becomes elegant finger-food. Imagine, dear reader, your favourite mid-week Sheperd’s Pie encased in an individual pastry case. A whole pie (OK, a miniature version thereof) to yourself. That’s got to seem like heaven for a good proportion of the population.
Miniature Feasts if full of ideas to inspire. There is so much that is simple and different. Soon you’ll have a reputation as the Queen of convivial catering or the King of crafty canapés!
Miniature Feasts
Author: Michael Harwood
Published by: The Book Guild
Price: £16.95
ISBN 1-84624-025-5
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Oils and Vinegars
This could be a timely addition to your book collection. Oil and
vinegar are two staple ingredients that are indispensible to
practically every cuisine. The importance of oil is mythical to the
extent that some religions still incorporate oil into ceremony and
celebrations. Vinegar is an almost miraculous by-product of the wine
industry, acting as a food preservative... and an amazing rust remover!The Connoisseur’s Guide to Oils and Vinegars is another in that lovely series from Apple Press. Kathryn Hawkins has penned several food-related books including The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs and Spices which I have already reviewed. Nick Wright is responsible for the lovely evocative photographs. This book follows the usual The Connoisseur’s Guide format of lots of information presented in an interesting and accessible style.
There is an amazing variety of edible oils. You might have coconut oil or palm oil as your oil of choice if you live in either South-east Asia or Africa. Vegetable or corn oil is common in Europe although olive oil is now popular. Long gone are the days of tiny bottles of olive oil only being available from the local chemist shop. The purchaser would be treated sympathetically as they were obviously suffering from ear ache.
Vinegar is an ancient product that has found new favour in the last few years. Balsamic is one of the more celebrated vinegars but there are others that have rich and interesting characteristics, including Alan Coxon's Historic Vinegars which I recently reviewed. Vinegars fall into two basic groups, those bought for food preservation and those bought for flavour. A sprinkle of Malt might be just right for your cod and chips but a lighter wine vinegar is probably more fitting for a dressing over your warm quail egg salad.
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Oils and Vinegars is a comprehensive directory with what seems like every imaginable oil and vinegar. They are not just listed but each entry has an extensive description and an At-a-Glance summary. There is everything here from history to cooking temperatures, and a section on Pairing Oils and Vinegars. You’ll make some fascinating and delicious new salad dressings.
It’s not surprising that I enjoyed The Connoisseur’s Guide to Oils and Vinegars. This makes a great gift for any food lover be they carnivore or vegetarian. A well researched and well presented volume.
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Oils and Vinegars
Author: Kathryn Hawkins
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-272-0
Traditional Spanish Cooking
“One of my favourite books... it is such an inspirational book, with a good recipe on almost every page.” That’s the
view of Simon Hopkinson of The Independent and half an hour spent with
this volume and you will feel equally impressed. This is the winner of
the André Simon Award and was shortlisted for Glenfiddich Food
Book of the Year. Seems like the approval for this one is universal!The author, Janet Mendel, is an American journalist who has lived in Andalusia for more than thirty years so she obviously has first hand experience of her subject. The recipes have an authentic feel to them and seem just like the real Spanish food that some of us have had the privilege to eat in homes and small family-run restaurants. There is diversity here that you don’t find on the Costas where full English breakfasts and meat pie “like mother used to make” is sometimes the order of the day.
The charm of Traditional Spanish Cooking is that we not only have the recipes but also their context in Spanish daily life. The complexities of a breakfast in Spain give an idea of the rhythm of meals. The country is an ancient culinary melting pot with regional differences that reflect the influence of many civilisations that came, saw and left vestiges of their own traditions.
Traditional Spanish Cooking presents us with dishes that are simple to prepare but which take advantage of fresh and seasonal produce. This is country cooking at its best with marvellous combinations of flavour and texture, aroma and comfort. What could be better?
Moorish Kebabs (Pinchitos Morunos) owe their origin to the Muslims who conquered Spain and brought with them their spices (as well as tiles, baths and a nice line in fountains). Pork is the meat of choice for these skewers in modern Spain but lamb or veal would have been used by the Moors. The Spanish housewife can buy the spices already blended, such is the popularity of these kebabs. You will probably have all you need already on your spice rack so no need to book that ticket to Madrid.
We are talking about Spain so you would expect a recipe for Paella. In fact there are three distinct and authentic examples here. Valencia Paella Rice with chicken or rabbit and snail; Paella with Seafood, although it still contains chicken; and Noodle Paella which has white fish and prawns, with the usual rice being replaced by spaghetti.
Traditional Spanish Cooking is a gem of a book full of delicious and sometimes surprising dishes. Great value for money.
Traditional Spanish Cooking
Author: Janet Mendel
Published by FrancesLincoln
Price: £ 14.99
ISBN 0-7112-2677-6
The Complete Robuchon
The name Joël Robuchon might not mean too much to you ... unless
you are a food professional, a passionate home cook, interested in
classic French cooking, a lover of fine food or a collector of the best
cookbooks. Consider this as an introduction to one of the most
celebrated of contemporary French chefs and one who has been awarded
more Michelin Stars than any other chef. You know they don’t give those
away free with cornflakes... not even top-quality cornflakes!Joël has a restaurant empire that reaches from Europe to America and Asia. That’s not bad for a lad who had to find a job when he was only 15 years old. He was born in 1945 and by 1966 he was the official chef of La Tour de France, the most prestigious sporting event in the country. At 28 he was the head chef at Harmony-Lafayette and cooking 3000 meals each day (OK, he did have staff). Jamin in Paris was opened in 1981 and within 3 years he had 3 Michelin Stars under his belt.
The Complete Robuchon is a hefty tome of over 800 recipes. It looks an overwhelming size on the bookshelf but dip into these pages and you’ll see that it’s not going to spend much time on those bookshelves. This is a practical cookbook with sensible and accessible recipes that will be recognisable to family cooks all over France and beyond. Don’t be put off by the weight of the book nor the French name but rather focus on the quality of the dishes.
These are not cheffy recipes. It’s good old-fashioned cooking. Roast Duck is basic, traditional and delicious, and simple Buttered Cabbage relies on the quality of the produce rather than complicated cooking techniques. Skate Wings with Capers takes 2 minutes to prepare and only 13 minutes to cook. That’s less time than most preprepared “instant” meals.
My favourite chapter is that of One-dish Meals and Regional Specialities, not because it’s French food but rather because it has some of the finest rustic family cooking. Aligot is a winner of a dish of mashed potatoes, cheese and cream, and hails from the Massif Central, the central mountain range. Parisian Custard Tart is a lovely dessert but it’s not difficult, and nods to bistros and cafes and visits to the Louvre.
The Complete Robuchon deserves respect for its breadth of information. It must surely be considered a classic, not because the author is star-spangled but because the recipes stand scrutiny. It’s magnificent.
The Complete Robuchon
Author: Joël Robuchon
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-906502-22-5
A Table in the Tarn
It’s not just a story of a table but, in fact, a whole guest house. That guest house being in the Tarn region of South West France where the author, Orlando Murrin, and his partner Peter Steggall have made their home. More accurately, Orlando and Peter have turned an old property into a guest house, and A Table in the Tarn – Living, Eating and Cooking in South-west France charts that journey.
This is a charming volume of soft and sepia colours, and photographs by Jonathan Buckley. It’s stylish but resists the temptation to be too stereotypically “Country French”, it’s more about showing “Real French”. There are plenty of pictures of neighbours and staff who have played a big part in the success of the venture. The buildings are honey-coloured and typical of this part of the world, and just a flick through the pages will encourage you to follow in Orlando's footsteps... but read the book before you sell your home and head south.
A Table in the Tarn is divided into two parts; it’s almost like two different books. The Story of the Manoir is the first section and will drive away any romantic notions that you might have about renovating an old French pile. The tale of the plumber who filled the house with water from dozens of leaks - freshly plastered walls and ceilings being hacked away and treasured possessions being ruined - will be enough to make you think twice.
And then there is the language problem! French TV wanted to make a documentary about the Manoir. During a tricky piece of pastry folding, presenter Hélène Bassas asked Orlando: “Vous êtes là depuis combien de temps?” To which Orlando replies, “Une heure dix à peu près dans un four chaud.” (“How long have you lived in France?” “An hour and ten minutes in a hot oven.”)
The Recipe section of the book is divided by course and there are some lovely dishes that make the best of local ingredients. “Le Cake” is a popular French appetizer or even a starter. It is a savoury “cake” which can contain bacon, cheese, olives, onions or sausage and it’s almost always loaf-shaped. Orlando’s version has bacon, black olives, Reblochon semi-soft cheese and herbs.
The Ultimate Strawberry Tartlets are impressive but not difficult. Other soft fruits could be substituted making this a versatile and very posh dessert. The pastry uses Demerara sugar which gives a nutty crunch to the base. Mascarpone supplies the creamy filling and the final result is a stunner.
A Table in the Tarn will be a fascinating read for anyone considering a serious move to France but also for anyone who loves good food, either French or British.
A Table in the Tarn – Living, Eating and Cooking in South-west France
Author: Orlando Murrin
Published by: HarperCollins
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-0-00-726394-3
A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School
The very name “Ballymaloe” sounds poetic and conjures visions of green
and idyllic hills. Not far from the truth according to Antony Worrall
Thompson who says, “I’m often asked which is my favourite cookery
school. Without question Ballymaloe Cookery School near Cork in
Southern Ireland would be my choice... At Ballymaloe you have
everything, an exquisite property set in acres of wonderful organic
gardens surrounded by fabulous countryside... Idyllic is a word rarely
used but in Ballymaloe’s case it is the word that sums up what this
cookery school is about.”A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School is a lovely reflection of Darina Allen’s celebrated school. It’s a large-format volume with amazing photographs by Melanie Eclare, Michelle Garrett and Timmy Allen (hmm, another of the famous dynasty?). The overall impression is of comfort and calm. Probably just what we need in these times of crunching credit and creeping prices.
Darina is justifiably well regarded as not only a teacher but also an author. I have reviewed most of her books over these last weeks and they are all of a universally high standard but more importantly they are all a good read. A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School will be appreciated by lovers of her friendly and warm-hearted style.
This particular book focuses on the use of fresh and seasonal produce. We might not all have access to a good market but we can all, at least, chose the best that the change of seasons has to offer. It makes sense to buy vegetables when they are plentiful and at a good (one hopes) price. Darina's book will give you an idea of what you should be looking for as the months go by.
The recipes are divided, as you would expect, by the four seasons. Those chapters each list Starters, Main Courses, Vegetables and Puddings. It’s nice to see those sweet things referred to as “puddings”. Sounds old-fashioned, cheering and comfy, although the puds here are trendy.
Steak and Oyster Pie is a classic and it’s good to see that combination of traditional and modern in the same collection. Thai Chicken, Galingale and Coriander Soup is a good example of the newer face of cooking. A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School represents how both the Irish and British eat (or would like to eat) these days.
Darina's recipe for Christmas Semi-freddo with Raisins and Marrons Glacés is so good that it would be worth buying this book just for that. It’s one of those desserts that is simple to prepare, stunning to look at and delicious. A light change from the usual Christmas Pudding and the beauty of it is that you can make this ages in advance.
A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School is a joy and another Allen family triumph!
A Year at Ballymaloe Cookery School
Author: Darina Allen
Published: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-709-0
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Tea
This is another in the lovely Connoisseur’s series by Apple Press. The author, Jane Pettigrew, is a celebrated teaprofessional and currently edits the Tea International section of the Tea and Coffee Trade Journal. Jane is also a consultant to the UK Tea Club. This extraordinary woman even manages to find time to write a few food related books such as
Traditional Teatime
Recipes, reviewed here a
few months ago.The Connoisseur’s Guide to Tea is a colourful volume with charming photographs by Paul Forrester and map illustrations by Richard Chasemore. Those maps help to give the information some geographic context. Tea is an international product which has regional differences, and even subtle characteristics unique to particular plantations. The tea story is an amazing jigsaw of leaf varieties, climate and soil.
I wasn’t aware that tea is, in fact, the most popular drink in the world. Most of us in the UK tend to drink black tea and mostly the sort that comes in handy little bags. There is a trend towards green tea as well as flavoured teas although some of these rely on herbs and spices for flavour and contain no tea. It pays to look at the ingredients if you want to take advantage of the reputed health-giving properties of the real thing.
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Tea is divided into two parts, the first being The Story of Tea and the second being the Global Tea Directory. Most of us know a bit about the history of our cuppa but it’s a fascinating tale and we should perhaps view with shame our (that is the British) involvement. The British East India Company grew and exported opium to China. They did this despite the fact that the importation of opium was banned by Chinese law in 1727! The Chinese paid for the opium with silver and that same silver was used by the British to pay for tea from China.
The Global Tea Directory is comprehensive but much more accessible than many wine tasting guides. It covers all the main tea producing areas. Numerous teas are described, brewing tips are given and even suggestions for when you might best enjoy these teas and whether you should add milk or not... always controversial.
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Tea is an information-packed volume that will encourage you to try something a bit different. Dust off the teapot and buy some real tea. You’ll taste the difference.
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Tea
Author: Jane Pettigrew
Price: £12.99
Published by: Apple Press
ISBN 978-1-84543-144-0
A History of Food
This book should be republished and retitled THE History
of Food. It’s
probably the most remarkable book on the subject I have ever had the
pleasure of reading. A History of Food is huge in size and
comprehensive in depth and breadth of subject. The author, Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat, is a celebrated historian, journalist and writer and has published seventeen books in France on food and its history. Although a serious academic she writes with a light and charming style.
The original edition of A History of Food is considered as a master work. We all profess to love “the classics” but in truth we mostly read them when forced to at school. We say we read them in adulthood when in fact we only buy them to make our bookshelves look intellectual! I had therefore not expected to enjoy this new edition as much as I do.
A History of Food is a “good read” with all that those words imply. It’s absorbing, accessible and easy to dip into. There are 750-odd pages here so you will not be rushing through this in a weekend. It isn’t a book you will choose as your commuting reading matter nor will you read it propped up in bed with your late-night cocoa. (The weight alone will bring on the sensation of either indigestion or cracked ribs.)
Maguelonne has penned a book stuffed with facts but presented with a delightful padding of cultural observation, anecdote and folk tale. This could so easily have been a useful but dry encyclopeadia of food but instead it’s a colourful journey through the historic and social evolution of ingredients and their place in our lives.
The chapter headings will spark your curiosity: Spice at any Price, The Lure of Sugar, Tea and Philosophy. No food type is omitted, no adventure glamorized and no injustice minimised. A History of Food gives the facts and context for each and every narrative and will encourage you to regard some foods with a bit more respect.
I have been immersed in A History of Food for several days. Each page offers more fascinating stories, more tales of daring-do and more characters who have changed the way we eat and even the way we view our daily bread. If you love food, if you love history then this is the book for you. It’s amazing value.
A History of Food
Author: Maguelonne Toussaint-Samat
Published by: Wiley-Blackwell
Price: £22.99
ISBN 978-1-4051-8119-8
Made in Great Britain
Aiden Byrne found his vocation at the age of 14. His cousin Alan Feeney was a big influence on his life and Alan had taken the catering route. Aiden’s granddad had been a chef in the Navy so it’s obviously in the blood.
After two years studying catering at the then Knowsley Central Tertiary College in Roby, he got a job at London’s Royal Garden Hotel, but he hated it with a will known to few. “Being locked in the fridges is one of my memories. I couldn’t handle it and would cry myself to sleep.”
The negative experience at the Royal Garden Hotel sent Aiden back to his northern roots and saw him trying his hand at Chester’s Grosvenor Hotel where he stayed for 18 months. “I kept on going in for nothing and after four weeks they got p***ed off and offered me a job as a commis chef.”
After the Grosvenor Hotel he gained more experience in restaurants in Wilmslow and Leeds, before finding work at Adlard’s in Norwich. There, still only 21 years old, he was made head chef and by 22 he became the youngest chef to win a Michelin star. “I’d never worn a suit in my life and here I was being asked to a Michelin dinner at the Savoy in a bow tie! I was in the same room as Marco Pierre White, Gordon Ramsay and Raymond Blanc – it was totally overwhelming.”
Aiden found his niche in London at last when, in 2006, he was appointed head chef of The Grill at the Dorchester Hotel in Park Lane. He generously admits that he owes much of his success to his dedicated and talented team and the amazing facilities.
Made in Great Britain is stylish and impressive. The cover has been thoughtfully designed and has a young and masculine feel. The photography, both black and white, and colour, by Sue Atkinson, is superb. Lovely pictures of the food are contrasted by action shots of Aiden and staff.
Although both the chef and the dishes are undoubtedly “Made in Great Britain”, not all the ingredients are home grown. This book is a reflection of modern British food rather than uniquely British produce. Having said that, Aiden has presented a showcase for the best that these islands have to offer. He takes pride in all that is good and so often overlooked.
The recipes sound chefy, having titles that read like descriptions (Sea Bream with Lemon Sauce, Crayfish and Sage Risotto), but any competent home cook could tackle these in a domestic kitchen and be assured of spectacular results. There are lots of dishes that are simple so start with those and give yourself a bit of confidence. Strawberries with Whisky Granite is a stunner and imaginative but so easy.
Made in Great Britain is the ideal recipe book for any serious home cook. It’s well written and inspiring and will hopefully not be the last from Aiden Byrne.
Made in Great Britain
Author: Aiden Byrne
Published by: New Holland
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-84773-160-9
Cooking for Baby
We all want flavourful and healthy food but some parents
are content to
give bland and bottled meals to the smallest members of the family.
Lisa Barnes has lots of fresh and interesting ideas for babies from 6
months to 18 months old. She is the founder of Petit Appetit, a
culinary service that teaches parents how to provide healthy food to
their children. Lisa is the author of The Petit Appetit Cookbook which
won the iParenting Media Award.Cooking for Baby has the appeal of a child’s story book. A pastel palette and strong images are complemented by the photography of Jeff Tucker and Kevin Hossler. Plenty of cute babies but also pictures of delicious food that would entice even the fussiest of eaters.
There are 80 recipes which are divided into sections appropriate for babies of 6 months, 7 to 8 months, 9 to 11 months and 12 to 18 months. It’s true that babies develop at different rates so ask at the clinic if you are not sure when to introduce new foods into your child’s diet. The Key Nutrients information at the back of the book will give you more ideas about providing a balanced diet for growing youngsters.
Nobody will report you to the authorities if you give your baby a jar of food from time to time. Let’s be practical! It’s easier and probably safer to use pre-prepared commercial meals when you are travelling, but when at home you can easily make your own. Use organic produce and the best quality ingredients and you will be encouraging your child to have the taste for good wholesome foods.
Lisa gives you all the advice you’ll need to prepare delicious and safe meals for your children as they grow from small babies to toddlers. The First Tastes chapter is, as you would expect, a collection of purees. Sweet Potato Puree is a good example of a recipe that can be adapted for all the family. Your baby of six months will enjoy the thinned puree but you and the older kids can have lovely sophisticated sweet potato mash.
There are some chunkier meals in the New Flavours chapter for the 7 to 8 month babies, so Lentils and Lamb, and Asparagus “Risotto”, add more flavour and more texture to the diet. There are still purees to be found here but on the whole the foods are becoming more flavourful. Lisa offers lists of herbs and spices to add to the dishes.
Kids of any age will enjoy the recipes, especially those aimed at toddlers. Turkey Minestrone, Minty Aubergine Dip, and Meatballs with Polenta are easy to prepare and will be appreciated by everyone. You can adjust the seasoning for older family members and that’s a lot less time-consuming than cooking separate meals every evening.
Cooking for Baby is a volume that will give confidence to any young mum who wants to become more involved in her child’s diet.
Cooking for Baby
Author: Lisa Barnes
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-288-1
Middle Eastern Cookery
Original copies of this book have changed hands for
hundreds of pounds.
It’s that combination of scarcity and popularity that encourages that
monetary phenomenon. The author, Arto der Haroutunian, died in 1987 so
his books are valued as a resource that will never be replaced. Arto
was only 47 years old when he died.Middle Eastern Cookery is considered by many as Arto der Haroutunian’s finest work and perhaps the seminal work on the subject. This must surely be one of the most eagerly awaited reprints, so highly is it regarded by culinary professionals and home cooks alike.
Arto begins with a charming preface; don’t skip this as it sets the scene. Arto talks of his family, now living in Manchester, and of their love of food and their generosity. He describes with warm emotions tables groaning with his mother’s delicious food and tells of numerous guests who shared and appreciated those tastes of “home”.
“Home”, for Arto, his family and friends was the Middle East. The Arab States, Israel, Syria, Lebanon, Iraq, Turkey, the Caucasian republics of Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan, and Iran broadly represent that area, and the recipes of that region are the focus of this volume.
This is possibly the most comprehensive Middle Eastern cookery book available. OK, so it doesn’t have the padding of sumptuous photographs but Arto’s writing paints the most mouth-watering images. The recipes are, for the most part, simple, relying on the freshest and best of ingredients to give both flavour and texture to the dishes. The recipes are authentic, being popular family recipes from every corner of this fascinating but too often war-torn landscape.
There are plenty of recipes here that will bring joy to the heart of many vegetarians. Arto’s mother gave him plenty of culinary advice, (mums are like that) and one of those pearls was “Never serve boiled vegetables. Fry, stew, braise, pour sauce over, but never boil in water.” I think those wise words probably hold good for all of us.
The Ganachi (Cooked Vegetables) chapter offers an interesting selection. Kurdish Vegetable Stew is seasoned with cinnamon and has a crunch from walnuts. Nuts are also used with Shesh Havij (Carrots with Nuts) from Iran. It’s a dish garnished with both almonds and pistachios and a drizzle of pomegranate juice.
Lamb is the most popular meat in the Middle East so it’s no surprise that it features here. Lamb with Saffron and Almonds is found in North-West India, Pakistan, Afghanistan and Iran, from where it originally hailed. It’s easy and exotic with warming spices. Hamuth Helou is an Iraqi lamb stew with dates, apricots, prunes and raisins. Rich, sweet and aromatic. I would, to be honest, be happy to eat my way through every dish in this book... er, well, um, apart from perhaps Hooves, Tongue and Tripe Stew but then perhaps I am a picky eater!
Middle Eastern Cookery is rightly a prized and appreciated volume. You will be happy that you don’t have to pay hundreds of pounds to enjoy this classic book.
Middle Eastern Cookery
Author: Arto der Haroutunian
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £18.99
ISBN 978-1-904010-81-4
Easy Peasy
This is the debut book by Sophie Wright. She must be tired
of
being
called “the young Sophie Wright”! She is 22 years old but has years of
experience. She studied at the celebrated Westminster Kingsway College
in London for three years before starting her professional career, so
Sophie already has five or six years in the Food Industry.Sophie was recognised as an exceptional pupil at Westminster College, representing her school in competitions and winning a total of 15 medals. The most prestigious award was the Gold Best in Class Award at the Salon Culinaire at Hotelympia. In her final year Sophie was awarded the Top Graduate Achiever Award at the Craft Guild of Chefs Graduate Awards 2006. Sophie graduated with distinction with a Professional Chefs Diploma and was recognised as Highest Achieving Female Student and Highest Achieving Competition Chef. Not too shabby, huh?
Sophie gained hands-on experience when she took control of the kitchen at Beach Blanket Babylon in London. She was 20 years old! Now it’s time for her to focus on other aspects of her career with her own private catering company and freelance food writing.
Easy Peasy – Laid-back Food for Lazy Days is a large format and very pretty book with marvellous photographs by Kate Whitaker. It’s stylish with fresh and subtle colours. The recipes are easy to follow and have broad appeal.
The chapters include Bare Essentials, Posh Lunchbox and Show-off Suppers. There are lovely recipes here that are presented with humour and charm. Of Sweet Gypsy Toast, Sophie writes “My Nan used to make her savoury version of this”. Itsy Bitsy Teeny Weeny Trifles are individual trifles served in shot glasses. What a brilliant idea and why didn’t I think of that first.
You have gotta love a dish called The Unladylike Sandwich. It’s not so much a recipe, but more an idea for the best ever sausage sandwich. Mucky and mouth-watering. Pink Seafood Quiche is, as Sophie says, “One for the girls”. Any combination that includes salmon and crayfish is OK by me and this is a particularly fine and rich preparation. It looks divine and will be a favourite with all your vegetarian friends who are sick of you feeding them nut loaf.
Seriously Sexy Baked Chilli Pineapple should be Sophie’s signature dish, and it might well have been had she not been honest enough to admit that she first discovered this in New Zealand. This is one of those recipes that is embarrassingly simple but which will have your guests well impressed. Don’t you just love that?
We will hear more from Sophie Wright in the future. Easy Peasy might be her first book but it will not be her last.
Easy Peasy
Author: Sophie Wright
Published by Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-787-8
Twinkle, Twinkle
Little Stars
This is a little cracker! The author, Gervase Phinn, has
spent most of
his working life surrounded by children, having been both a teacher and
a school inspector. Twinkle, Twinkle Little Stars is a compilation of
stories that reflect the unique picture of the world from a child’s
point of view. It’s hilarious but manages to resist being cute and
sugary.Part of the charm of the book is that the children are from rural communities in the Yorkshire Dales. If you are, like me, a southern townie, you will find observations of country and animals quite enchanting. Gervase encouraged a small boy to show off his counting skills. “How many sheep can you see in that field?” asks our hero. “I can see all on ‘em” the boy replies. “No I meant how many altogether. Could you count them for me?”. “Well, there’s five Swalesdales and six Texels, three hybrids and four hoggits. That makes eighteen in total, dunt it.”
Twinkle, Twinkle Little Stars captures the Dales accent marvellously. The chapter Simone and William Learn to Speak Proper is one of my favourites. “Miss, I can’t find mi readin’ book. I don’t know weer I’ve gone an’ putten it.” “I cannot find my reading book,” the teacher repeated slowly and precisely, “because I do not know where I have put it. There is no such word as ‘putten’.” The teacher wrote a sentence on the blackboard: “I have putten my book on the teacher’s desk.” She asked the class what was wrong with that sentence. “Miss, tha’s gone and putten ‘putten’ when tha should ‘ave putten ‘put’.”
Twinkle, Twinkle Little Stars is a lovely little book and sure to be much appreciated by teachers, parents and grandparents. You don’t have to live north of Watford to recognise the innocent view of life and it’s good to know that computers and the internet have not yet eroded childhood.
Twinkle, Twinkle Little Stars
Author: Gervase Phinn
Published by: Penguin, Michael Joseph
Price: £10.00
ISBN 978-0-718-15417-2
Kitchen Essays
This is the quintessential English cookbook. Written in
the 1920’s
Agnes Jekyll has captured that decade, those years, those days of calm
before the storm. Dress in your best flowery, floaty frock (if you are
a girl, that is), invite some friends for a Sunday afternoon summer
picnic and take this book along. Pack an old-fashioned wicker picnic
basket with old-fashioned food (neither crisps nor cola) and transport
yourself to a gentler time. Spread the rug on the cool grass and read
aloud from Kitchen Essays to the delight of your guests.Persephone Books have published a most charming volume. The understated grey cover is complemented with lovely endpapers taken from a printed silk, “Clusters of stylised fruits, flowers and shell motifs”. Designed by George Sheringham for Seftons in 1922, the pattern is typical of that era.
Kitchen Essays is, in fact, a compilation of recipes and articles published by The Times of London. They are said to be the first recipes published in that newspaper. Agnes Jekyll was considered as one of the foremost hostesses. Mary Lutyens described her house as “the apogee of opulent comfort and order without grandeur, smelling of pot-pourri, furniture polish and wood smoke”. It has to be noted though that it’s evident that there were, if not a battery of kitchen staff, as least a brace of skilled workers at her disposal.
There are some evocative chapter headings, giving an accurate impression of the style of the book. “In Cook’s Absence”, “A Little Dinner Before the Play”, “A Little Supper After the Play”, “A Winter Shooting-Party Luncheon”, “Food for Artists and Speakers”.
Kitchen Essays has a marvellous peppering of food-related observations. “We cannot both have our cake and eat it, and though to try is as human as to fail, we should at least ascertain what our cake is made of and weigh carefully all its ingredients before deciding which we will do with it.” Another droll quote, from the chapter Luncheon for a Motor Excursion in Winter - “There stands an Inn below the hill, rightly named ‘Pelican’ from its enormous bill.”
Agnes Jekyll penned a good many recipes, some of which are still popular whilst others are very much of her time. Chicken Pilaf, Bread and Butter Pudding and Risotto are all familiar to us and Baked Jam Roly-Poly has even been demonstrated by Chef Mike Robinson on UKTV Food. Syston Iced Pudding, Oeufs à la Crème and Sardines à la Sackville might not be thought of as regulars, chez vous.
There are a few dishes here that will never grace my dinner table, Camembert in Aspic being the most appalling of the bunch, but they are, for the most part, good recipes. Kitchen Essays is a book that you will enjoy for its social commentary and richness. It makes the most perfect bedtime reading and is sure to make its way onto the Christmas list of many a food lover.
Kitchen Essays
Author: Agnes Jekyll
Published by: Persephone Books
Price: £10.00
ISBN 1 903155 185
Pizza – A Global History
The Edible Series of food history books is turning into
one of my
favourite multi-volume collections. Pizza – A Global History is another
title recently published and it has the same characteristic high-end
presentation and content as the others I have encountered. These are
small books but classy so if you are into shelf-appeal you’ll enjoy
these, but you’ll miss out if you don’t read them.But let’s talk specifics, in this case Pizza. There are almost 60 illustrations here that chart the history and also explore the future of this dish. It’s as iconic as the ever-popular burger and is certainly more easily adapted to local tastes and dietary requirements. Pizza has become an international favourite.
Pizza had a rather unpromising start, being the food of poverty and last resort for the unfortunate of Naples. The author and food critic Alexander Dumas (yes, the same chap who wrote the Three Musketeers and many of those other books you say you have read) gave pizza a bad press but noted that the toppings indicated the state of the food supply in that area of Italy. People with money would never consider eating such lowly fare.
Young people probably suppose that pizza has always been a well-loved international dish. In fact it wasn’t even very popular as an Italian food till after the Second World War. It remained traditional only to Naples until many from that region migrated north for work, taking their taste of home with them. The onset of the tourist industry heralded a new dawn for pizza, with American GIs now returning with their families, seeking a slice of nostalgia of times spent in war-ravaged southern Italy.
America’s love of pizza started in the 40s and continues to this day. Its arrival coincided with the start of a more affluent and leisure-focused era. It was a dish enjoyed by young and old and could be purchased by the slice, in a restaurant or from a fast food stall. Young men on mopeds are a common site in most large towns and empty boxes are a new trend in street furniture.
Pizza – A Global History is fascinating and well researched. Carol Helstosky is a food writer deserving of a space on your bookshelf and I look forward to reading more from her.
Pizza – A Global History
Author: Carol Helstosky
Published by: Reaktion Books
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-1-86189-391-8
Making Fine Chocolates
I have, over the past months, reviewed several lovely
chocolate cookery
books. This is, however, a little different. This is all about making
your own chocolates rather than using chocolate in, say, a cake or
tart. Making Fine Chocolates will take you through the process of
transforming a bar of high-quality chocolate into flavour-infused
chocolates, truffles and other gorgeous sweets.Andrew Garrison Shotts is the former corporate pastry chef at Guittard Chocolate and owner of Garrison Confections. He has been recognised as a “Top Ten Artisanal Chocolatier” by the American newspaper, USA Today. I think we can assume that this young man is an expert.
I know to my cost that chocolate is an iffy substance to work with. It is quite forgiving as an ingredient in most desserts but hand-made chocolates demand a bit more thought and technical know-how. This being said, it’s not rocket science. If you can follow a recipe and have a thermometer then you’ll have no problems.
Making Fine Chocolates has an exceptional Techniques chapter. Read this before you even consider embarking on making chocolates. Perfecting tempering will mark your efforts as professional. You'll want to make chocolates that look as good as expensive shop-bought ones. They need to be glossy, have a smooth and non-grainy texture and mouth-feel on melting. Handmade chocolates are not just melted and shaped bars of chocolate. You’ll find the tempering step well worth the effort.
Let’s get on to the fun part... the chocolates! Chocolate Truffles are the easiest to make and Andrew offers us a great selection of exotic ones. Banana Caramel, Peanut Butter Sizzle and Sesame are just a few of them.
Moulded Chocolates are the ones that you will want to perfect. You can buy the plastic moulds in most good cookware shops. Making Fine Chocolates gives all the advice you will need and also lots of helpful step-by-step pictures. The chocolates you’ll make will be inspiring and a bit more up-market than those you find in most commercial boxes.
Andrew Garrison Shotts has penned a lovely book that will be essential to anyone who wants to present something special at the end of a meal or as a gift. There are very few people who would not be impressed by unique and delicious chocolates made by your own fair hands. There are only a few books about making chocolates and this is one of the best.
Making Fine Chocolates
Author: Andrew Garrison Shotts
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £14.99
ISBN 13: 978-1-84543-194-5
Cooking on The Bone
You won’t want to miss this one! Cooking on The Bone –
Recipes, History
and Lore must be one of the very best (mostly) meat cookery books. It’s
a stunner and is, as far as I know, unique. Rob Fiocca is a genius of
the shutter and has conjured marvellous photographs that complement the
text so well.This is, surprisingly, Jennifer McLagan’s first book. She has more than 25 years working in the food industry in both Europe and Australia as a chef and a food writer. Cooking on The Bone was the winner of the James Beard Award and IACP Best Cookery Book Award. Not bad for a first try!
I find this book immensely appealing. It oozes comfort and warmth and is just the kind of volume that will encourage even less adventurous men to invite a few friends for Sunday lunch or a winter dinner. It has the feel of a solid family cookbook with recipes that encompass the most traditional to the more exotic.
The chapters are, quite reasonably, divided by meat type but fish is the surprise and welcome addition to the list. We are so often deprived of the opportunity to eat fish or meat from the bone. The modern attitude has been that bones should be discarded and are somehow socially unacceptable, very much in the same way that Victorians would cover piano legs!
The recipes are mouth-watering but this is easy cooking. There is nothing here that could be described as challenging. The key to good results is the quality of produce. Meat and fish are pricey these days so you’ll want the best from them when you have paid out your hard-earned cash. Jennifer not only offers superb recipes but also lots of information and advice about different cuts of meat.
Whole Fried Whitebait seems, at first glance, a bit out of place but it is indeed cooked on the bone and is one of my top ten favourite dishes. These delicate morsels are not battered but just dusted with seasoned flour before frying. The texture is crisp but much lighter than fish and chip shop fillets. Jennifer suggests Deep-Fried Parsley as a garnish for the whitebait. A nice cheffy touch.
Seven-Hour Leg of Lamb is surely the most practical dish for a weekend with a house full of friends and family. Delicious and simple. Your home will be filled with the enticing aroma of roasting meat, garlic and rosemary. Just some roast vegetables and a flavourful gravy are all you’ll need to please with ease.
Chicken with Forty Cloves of Garlic is a classic. It sounds like a joke but it’s a recipe that works. The garlic becomes sweet and soft and can be served as a spread with some crusty bread or toasted baguette. Even friends who insist that they hate garlic love this fragrant chicken dish.
Cooking on The Bone is a must-have for any passionate cook. It is bound to become a classic. Amazing value.
Cooking on The Bone
Author: Jennifer McLagan
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £ 14.99
ISBN 978-1-906502-20-1
Pancake – A Global
History
Another soon-to-be classic from the Edible Series by
Reaktion Books.
Pancake – A Global History is just one from that long list of titles
that will shortly be available. There are two other volumes already in
book stores, Hamburger and Pizza.The author of Pancake – A Global History is Ken Albala. You might remember his name as the author of Beans – A History, that I recently reviewed. He is a witty writer who has a talent for giving a thorough overview of a subject but also adding well-researched specifics. Always amusing and edifying.
I have a love-hate relationship with pancakes. I love eating them but hate the sporting nature of the dish. What, dear reader, is the sporting element of the pancake story? It’s the British institution of the Shrove Tuesday Pancake Race. It’s an event that involves a lengthy trot whilst carrying a frying pan garnished with a pancake, this being periodically tossed. I have indeed participated (under coercion) in such an event and I conclude that pancakes are better left to satisfy hungry diners in the comfort of either home or restaurant.
The humble pancake is a truly international dish which has represented either a hearty breakfast for working men (a pile of thick pancakes with bacon and maple syrup) or a refined touch of luxury in the case of caviar-topped blini. The ingredients change according to geographic location and availability of flour but the principal cooking method remains common. Ken has been kind enough to include a number of recipes for some of the classic varieties of pancake like blini and Crêpe Suzette.
Ken suggests that “Pancakes taste best consumed in periods of sloth on protracted weekend mornings. They must be savoured without hurry or premeditation, ideally in dressing gown and slippers, at the kitchen table or maybe even in bed, and preferably in excess, just to the brink of nausea.”
This is another rollicking read from Ken Albala. His style of writing is always accessible. There is a stack of information here and it’s evident that he enjoyed the subject. It isn’t an over-academic and heavy book but it’s fascinating to anyone interested in the history of the ever-popular pancake.
Pancake – A Global History
Author: Ken Albala
Published by: Reaktion Books
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-1-86189-392-5
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Whisky
Wine, and French wine in particular, has a high profile but what of the Water of Life? The Connoisseur’s Guide to Whisky tells the story of the other world famous and much celebrated drink. Whisky is revered and collected in the same way as fine wine and is enjoyed for its depth and character.
This amazing volume is a comprehensive directory of over 100 whiskies, including Scotch single malts and blended whiskies. This isn’t a guide to Scotch; it encompasses whisky from the United States, Ireland and Japan. You’ll learn how to taste whisky and appreciate the differences between, say, Irish and Scotch which are many and distinct, even to my unpractised palette!
There are many who will think that the author, Helen Arthur, has the best job in the world. Her whole career has been spent in alcohol! She has penned, amongst many others, The Single Malt Whisky Companion, one of the world’s bestselling books on the subject. Whisky Water of Life won the Best Spirits Book in the World Award 2000. Both these are published by Apple Press.
Helen was made a member of the Keepers of the Quaich in 1999. This was in recognition of her work in promoting “the advancement, standing and reputation of Scotch Whisky”. I know you are too shy to ask what a Quaich might be, so I’ll put you out of your misery and tell you that it’s a special kind of shallow two-handled drinking cup or bowl. It derives from the Gaelic “cuach” meaning a cup. OK, so I looked it up!
There are more whiskies listed in The Connoisseur’s Guide to Whisky than you are likely to find in your local supermarket and each of the 100 or so entries is detailed, giving history, owners, location, contact information, colour, nose and taste, in fact there is everything you could ever want to know about any particular whisky apart from who designed the label! Helen even tells us if there is a visitor’s centre. Now there’s a thought!
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Whisky lists some unique distillations. Klochoman on Ilay produces New Spirit which is clear. The first bottling will take place in 2010 when the spirit will be four years old. Helen reckons this one shows great promise.
Helen Arthur has presented a marvellously illustrated catalogue of world whiskies that any connoisseur would love to own.
Cookbook Review:The Connoisseur’s Guide to Whisky
Author: Helen Arthur
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-275-1
Kids Parties
This is such a lovely dolly-mixture-coloured volume that I
am
considering adopting a few kids just to have the excuse to throw a
party for them! The photography by Thayer Allyson Gowdy is charming and
remarkable when one considers the difficulty of taking a good picture
of children doing anything other than sleeping!The Author, Lisa Atwood, has worked as a food writer and an editor and publisher for the celebrated Williams-Sonoma cookbooks. She has also worked as a children’s cooking instructor so has plenty of experience at the sharp end of entertaining kids.
Kids Parties – Creative Ideas and Recipes for Making Celebrations Special, to give the book its full title, has seven party themes appropriate for all ages and interests. It’s not just the food that is planned but also invitations, decorations and activities. Lots of the recipes are child-friendly and offer a new experience for young hands.
There are some inspiring chapter headings. Pizza Party, Halloween Party, and Easter Party are just a few of them. Cupcake Party would be a popular theme for little girls who want a sophisticated and thoroughly feminine celebration. There’s plenty of advice on even the smallest of details. Party hair clips decorated with butterflies are great gifts for the guests. Frilly straws, pastel-coloured drinks with slices of strawberries and sugared rims will make everyone feel grownup. Make the cupcakes beforehand and let the kids decorate them. All you will need are three buckets of delicately coloured icing in various shades and as many sugar or chocolate decorations as you can find.
Lisa takes the fear out of entertaining children. She provides all the inspiration you’ll need to give a stylish bash without breaking the bank. You can mix and match the ideas and recipes and tailor the party to the tastes of you own children. Each party theme has all the advice you’ll need to help your day be less traumatic. There are Party Plans, Recipes, things to do Ahead of Time (that’s good to see), on the Day of the Party, During the Party and Activities.
Kids Parties will be a book that your children will enjoy looking at, and if you involve them in choosing and preparation they will feel the day is truly theirs. A bit of planning will give you a worry-free celebration with lasting memories of a fun time for the whole family.
Kids Parties
Author: Lisa Atwood
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-287-4
Fresh Eggs Don’t Float
This must be one of the most amusing but practical books around. Lara DePetrillo and Caroline Eastman-Bridges have collected and compiled a treasure chest of good advice that they are happy to pass on to novice cooks. Fresh Eggs Don’t Float has a number of recipes but it’s more a book of cooking tips laced with witty observation.
Lara and Caroline are friends who have a passion for food. Although separated by the Atlantic, they decided to further that interest by cooking a new recipe every day for a whole year. Now, I reckon that’s quite an undertaking! Many of us view the prospect of preparing a new dish for every day of a weekend with a mix of horror and adrenalin-pumping anxiety.
Fresh Eggs Don’t Float is the result of culinary collaboration and a wealth of experience. There are charming quotes from famous chefs, food writers and food lovers that express their passion for cooking. Louis Armstrong loved beans and rice so much that he signed his letters with “Red beans and ricely yours”. The celebrated American chef and food writer, James Beard wrote “I don’t like gourmet cooking or ‘this’ cooking or ‘that’ cooking. I like good cooking”.
If you have a terror of all kitchen-related things then this is the book for you. It pretty much starts with the assumption that you have an empty kitchen and no idea! The authors offer lists of equipment, utensils, gadgets that are either essential or nice-to-have. Once you have the hardware you’ll be considering food and so Lara and Caroline steer you through stocking the storecupboard, spice rack, freezer and fridge.
Each chapter focuses on a particular food and discusses that item in considerable depth. Let’s take Chicken as an example. Did you know, dear reader, that chickens are considered to be the closest living relatives to Tyrannosaurus Rex? The lifestyle and life expectancy of chickens is described (battery, barn reared, free range, organic). There are some good safety tips as well. It’s said that there are more chickens than people on earth and that they can be vicious. I guess a good safety tip would be “Don’t annoy the chickens”. There is lots of sensible information on stuffing and cooking methods.
Fresh Eggs Don’t Float will make you smile but it is good solid food writing. It presents information on shopping for produce, food preparation and cooking. Its light-hearted style makes its serious advice more accessible to a new cook.
Fresh Eggs Don’t Float
Authors: Lara DePetrillo and Caroline Eastman-Bridges
Published by: Piatkus – Little, Brown Group
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-0-7499-0968-0
European Peasant
Cookery
I have two big “thank yous” to start this review. First to
the author
Elisabeth Luard and secondly to Grub Street publishers who have
presented me with this amazing book which I have so wanted to review.
European Peasant Cookery should be recognised as an “important” work
and I am sure it will be sought out by passionate cooks.If you are a Food TV fan you might not have heard of Elisabeth Luard. She has been only seldom seen on the small screen but she is one of the most respected food writers. Respected by chefs, cooks and food journalists, and there can surely be no higher accolade than to be well regarded by one’s peers.
Elisabeth has an almost poetic style of writing. If you enjoy Elizabeth David you will be equally enchanted by the books of this other Elisabeth. Every paragraph reflects culinary experience and presents detailed information and advice. No corners are cut and nothing is omitted. You’ll read this book rather than flick through its pages. The anecdotes will bring vivid images of lively markets, sunshine and real people. Not “farmers” markets but markets populated by those who understand quality ingredients and accept nothing less. Those are often simple ingredients which are later transformed into the most splendid of feasts.
European Peasant Cookery has over 500 recipes from 25 countries. It’s a weighty tome but there is no padding. This is quality food writing from cover to cover. The recipes are divided by food type and include such things as Reindeer and Kid (No, dear reader, it’s not a small child but rather a young goat.)
Each recipe has a little history and indicates the country of origin. It’s peasant cooking so these dishes are not technically difficult nor will they require you to spend a fortune on a battery of kitchen gadgets. For the most part it’s all quite simple. Buy the best produce you can find and you are almost assured of a terrific meal.
Many of the dishes are what we now think of as classic although we could equally describe them as dishes that have stood the test of time. They are still with us because they are delicious and simple and have been popular for generations. This is a collection of recipes that work.
France is well represented as you would expect but let’s not be food snobs. Every one of those 25 countries has contributed something noteworthy. Beef and Beer Carbonade is a rich stew from Belgium, Pickled Vegetables is from Bulgaria, Bean Stew with Serrano Ham from Spain, and Lancashire Hot Pot from England - and it’s appropriate to mention that there are a good many entries from the UK.
I have been looking forward to reading European Peasant Cookery and it has been as wonderful as I had hoped. It’s quite remarkable food literature, and great value.
European Peasant Cookery
Author: Elisabeth Luard
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £15.00
ISBN 1-904943-36-5
Home Made – Good Honest Food Made Easy
Tana Ramsay has a book with one of the prettiest covers around, with a moiré silk-effect dust jacket. Home Made –Good Honest Food Made Easy gives a first impression of old-fashioned values and warmth. A marvellously well illustrated volume with lots of charming shots of Tana’s kids. This is, after all, a family cookbook.
Home Made – Good Honest Food Made Easy is divided into 11 chapters that reflect Tana’s key foods. The recipes are easy and designed to allow the cook some quality time with family and friends - lots of dishes that can be made in advance. This is something of a lifestyle book and presents a vision of convivial gatherings around the kitchen table... if you are lucky enough to have a kitchen table!
Soup is the original comfort food. Quick and easy to prepare and full of good things. It’s the sneaky way for hard-pressed mums to stuff some camouflaged vegetables into reluctant kids but these are smart recipes and good enough for entertaining - Sweetcorn and Coconut Soup, Sweet Potato and Carrot Soup with a Chilli Oil Sprinkling.
Pies of any sort make impressive meals. Tana has individual Chicken and Mushroom Pies. These would be ideal for children who when given shares of a big pie complain that Wayne got a bigger slice and Tinkerbelle-Twinkle got an extra mushroom. Ahh, the joy of family life! Tana lives in the real world and uses ready-rolled pastry.
Cinnamon Beef Stew is the dish you should make if you want to sell your house. I know the agents say you should have the enticing aroma of fresh brewed coffee but trust me, the hint of cinnamon in this stew will get any viewer reaching for the cheque book... well, at least they will say you have a lovely home!
Smoked Fish Pâté has a wonderful texture. Tana presents hers in a dish although it’s a handy starter served in small individual ramekins. Kippers are a healthy oily fish so you can feel good about offering this pâté to your family and especially if you can persuade them to eat brown wholemeal toast on the side. It’s best to use the fishmonger’s kippers but not many of us have access to a wet-fish shop. Boil in the bag kippers will work just as well.
Tana Ramsay has the taste for the good things in life and so has included a chapter devoted to Chocolate. Nothing wrong with that! White Chocolate Cake with Dark Chocolate Topping is a no-bake cake with a biscuit base and a filling of cream and melted white chocolate. It has a gorgeous drizzle of dark chocolate sauce to finish. You’ll find yourself making this one often.
Home Made – Good Honest Food Made Easy has recipes that are a bit different but still sensible. Tana Ramsay is a mum with little time but plenty of imagination and talent.
Home Made – Good Honest Food Made Easy
Author: Tana Ramsay
Published by: HarperCollins
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-0-00-727608-0
The Big Book of
Thai Curries
Vatcharin Bhumichitr has penned some fabulous books and I
must say that
The Big Book of Thai Curries is equal in every way to those others. He
is the golden boy (well, OK, man) of Thai cooking.Vatch has stuck to the winning formula of easy dishes with flavour and style. He has wisely marshalled the talents of photographers Martin Brigdale and Somchai Phongphaisarnkit once again. It’s a partnership that works well and produces the most sumptuous and colourful of books. There is the tried and tested mix of recipes and insight into Thailand and its people.
The Big Book of Thai Curries not only offers us recipes but gives us a wealth of information about Thai cooking and the place of curry in that cuisine. This is authentic Thai food and Vatch steers us through everything from regional culinary differences to making curry pastes. It’s fascinating and far easier than one would have imagined.
So how does a Thai curry differ from the ever-popular Indian varieties? Thai curry nearly always uses fresh herbs and spices rather than the dried preparations favoured in kitchens of the subcontinent. Indian curries are most often cooked in a base of ghee (clarified butter) rather than coconut milk. Thai curries often combine vegetables with meat or fish while Indian curries tend to be either of vegetables or of meats or fish.
The recipes are grouped by main ingredient: poultry, meat, fish, and vegetables and fruit. There is also a section of Snacks and One-Dish Meals which has a selection of dishes that most travellers will find familiar. Pork Satay with Peanut Curry Sauce (Moo Satay) is popular street food but these succulent little skewers make a tasty starter. Seafood Toast (Kanom Pang Talay) is an elegant morsel of bread with a delicate taste and crunchy texture.
The recipe chapters have some lovely surprises, the main one being the ease of preparation of all these dishes. Spicy Stuffed Roast Chicken is one of my favourite recipes. The whole chicken makes for a different presentation from the more usual array of small dishes of curries, rice or noodles. The stuffing in question is of onions, pork, peanuts and herbs, flavourful and lighter than the bread-based stuffing more common in the UK. The curry paste in this case is used as a rub before roasting, and coconut milk is used to baste.
Mackerel in Red Curry is another noteworthy dish. No fish is exactly cheap these days but we know we should eat more of it. Mackerel is a reasonable price and a healthy oily fish. The whole dish takes less than ten minutes to prepare so it’s got to be a great mid-week meal.
The Big Book of Thai Curries is just as stunning as I had expected, the recipes just as delicious and they are accessible to even novice cooks, who will be producing exotic and attractive meals in no time at all. Vatcharin Bhumichitr has done it again!
The Big Book of Thai Curries
Author: Vatcharin Bhumichitr
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-808-0
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs and Spices
Kathryn Hawkins is a well-respected food writer and author
of several
books, a home economist and former editor of Woman’s Own magazine. Her
knowledge of her subject is evident in The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs
and Spices. This is a charming encyclopaedia with fine photographs and delicious recipes. The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs and Spices is a cross between a botanist’s handbook and a cookbook. The detail here makes it an ideal companion when you next take an exotic city break to, say, Istanbul. You might at least then have some idea of what’s for sale in the spice aisle of the Grand Bazaar! There is plenty of advice on growing your own herbs, either in containers or in the garden.
We have been using herbs and spices since ancient times. The first book referring to the use of culinary herbs was penned by the Roman Apicius. Spices became more widespread after the fall of the Roman Empire when Arabian traders took advantage of the Mediterranean market.
From the eleventh century, the Crusaders introduced plants from the Holy Lands into Europe. The wealthy in medieval times had access to quite a list of exotic spices to enliven what was otherwise a bland diet.
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs and Spices is divided into the two obvious parts, herbs and spices, each of these with a history, advice on use and common names. Kathryn maintains a light and readable style while explaining the properties of the herbs and spices as well as their culinary uses.
There are a good number of recipes which have been chosen to best present a particular herb or spice. Black Olive Tapenade uses thyme to good effect. Fattoush is a light Lebanese salad with plenty of fresh parsley. Smoked Salmon Risotto uses dill which is a classic partner of salmon of any kind.
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs and Spices is a well-written, well-illustrated volume which would be welcomed by both gardeners and cooks.
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Herbs and Spices
Author: Kathryn Hawkins
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-226-3
Desserts
It’s got to be one of my favourite books of the moment. Desserts is quality in both content and presentation. The large format allows for the most gorgeous photography by Brent Parker Jones who has used his skills to great effect. The authors, Rachel Lane and Ting Morris, are both successful food writers and they have done a great job.
Desserts has a marvellous selection of recipes. Rachel and Ting have chosen well with a balance of both classic and contemporary. The text pages are open and clear with an almost Art Deco feel. Very attractive without being over-designed.
There are 250 international and thoroughly delicious recipes here. These are so diverse that this book is bound to have broad appeal. People with special health needs are not forgotten. There are quite a few recipes that are marked as being suitable for those with specific food allergies. This is a great idea and one that should be adopted by more food writers.
The desserts are divided into 17 different groups as well as a section for basic recipes. There is everything here from Fruit Desserts to Fritters. There are Warm Puddings and Soufflés as well as Frozen Desserts and Ice Creams. Lots of simple dishes are included but the more experienced cook will find plenty of inspiration. There isn’t anything here that could be described as challenging and there are a host of step-by-step illustrations to help with unfamiliar techniques.
Cupcakes are the trendy dessert just now and there are 18 scrumptious examples. None of them is taxing but all of them look elegant and stylish. Banoffee Cupcakes have my vote... or perhaps Orange Sour Cream Cupcakes... but I’ll go for the Low-Fat Chocolate Cupcakes. I need to choose something virtuous as I’ll be trying all the other 249 desserts before too long!
It’s nice to see a section on Candy. Sweets can be just as acceptable as more traditional desserts at the end of a meal. Coconut Ice is a perennial favourite and ideal as the finale to an exotic Indian or Middle Eastern dinner. Peanut Brittle is easier than you would imagine and the only disadvantage is that you will never seem to manage to make enough. Trust me, this is moreish!
Desserts is impressive with enough new and unique recipes to fire the interest of even the most enthusiastic of home cooks. My collection of cookbooks is considerable but I am happy to add this one to my shelves. This is great value and it stands a good chance of being this winter’s best-seller.
Desserts
Authors: Rachel Lane and Ting Morris
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-268-3
Cupboard Love
Laura Lockington has penned an autobiography that is both
hilarious and
poignant with the common denominator being food. This is brilliant and
my only complaint is that it’s too short. I was disappointed when I
reached that last page. The same sentiment one has when one reaches the
end of a well-needed holiday.Cupboard Love is populated by eccentric but lovable characters who offer Laura an enormous range of experiences, both emotional and culinary. Food, like the smell of perfume or aftershave, has the power to evoke vivid memories, and Laura’s story is a tapestry woven of meals and misadventure. Even those less happy encounters have added colour to her journey.
Not many books bring tears of mirth but this is one. Don’t read this in a public space for fear of making a spectacle of yourself. The events themselves are amusing but Laura’s choice of words is nothing less than inspired. The chapter titled Dinner Parties from Hell will have your sides aching but there are so many other truly funny anecdotes. Plenty of nostalgia, not of the “those were the days” variety, but recollections of Vesta instant meals and PVC raincoats that are bound to raise a smile with a sizable section of the population.
Perhaps I should warn you that you will read this book twice. I started reading the narrative and couldn’t stop. It’s compelling and you’ll need to know what happens next. I reached the last page and had to return to read the recipes, which all relate in some way to Laura. Each chapter (apart from that dealing with school dinners!) has a recipe.
So how about the food? The recipe for Strawy’s Christmas Cake sounds very tempting. It’s not the rich, heavy fruit-laden traditional but a cake moist with Clementines and lemons which would be ideal for anyone with wheat intolerance as it uses ground almonds instead of flour.
This is the first of Laura Lockington’s books that I have read but it won’t be the last. She has a unique style that I can only compare with such notable wits as Peter Ustinov and David Niven. There are very few truly amusing books around but this deserves to be at the head of the list. A real chuckle but also a warm and human story.
Cupboard Love
Author: Laura Lockington
Published by: Book Guild Publishing
Price: £9.99
ISBN 978-1-84624-280-9
Easy Entertaining
The words “easy” and “entertaining” are not often found in close proximity to each other but here they are in cosy partnership as the title for this wonderful book from Ireland’s Queen of Cuisine Darina Allen. This lady never disappoints, and the photography by Peter Cassidy is crisp and stunning.
Easy Entertaining is not only a cookbook, it also has styling and presentation suggestions. It’s a one-stop entertaining manual that will give the novice party-giver some confidence and the seasoned bash-thrower a different perspective. There are over 250 stress-free recipes to enhance any occasion.
Darina offers advice on menu planning, creating atmosphere (I personally am not keen on mirror disco balls), getting the party going, and choosing wine and drinks. If you are new to entertaining then you should read these chapters before you buy the crate of Newcastle Brown and the cheese puffs.
The most challenging element of your venture will be deciding what type of “do” will be most appropriate for your guests. If the average age of those friends is 5 ¾ years then you might consider looking at the Children's Food chapter rather than Formal Suppers. A Big Brunch could be the way to go if you have family who have a long drive home, and Prepare-ahead Suppers will give you no-fuss dishes for those evenings when time is an issue.
The recipes are broad-based and exciting. You can mix and match all of these. Icky Sticky Sausage Wraps from the Children’s Food chapter could be used as part of an adult brunch. Gateau Pithivier with Gruyere and Ham from the Portable Food chapter could easily be enjoyed as part of a formal supper. Darina Allen isn’t going to come round and smack your leg (not legal now) if you have your own menu combinations.
I’d be happy to munch my way through all these recipes. There are stylish snacks like Rory’s Spicy Popcorn which couldn’t be easier. The spices in question are chilli, pepper, cumin, curry powder, fresh ginger and garlic. Mouth-watering! Temari Sushi (Clingfilm Sushi) is new to me but what a great idea. Sushi rice is formed using the aforementioned clingfilm. Attractive little balls are simple to produce and a lot less terrifying than the usual rolled varieties of sushi.
The Slow Food chapter has some comforting winter warmers. Beef and Oxtail Stew with Parsnip Mash isn’t difficult to make and has a rich texture and flavour. What could be better on a cold night, followed by Steamed Sultana Pudding? Then there is Slow-roasted Shoulder of Lamb with Cumin Seeds. Now, this is almost no-cooking cooking. Put in a low oven and leave for a few hours. Your kitchen will be filled with the most delicious aromas.
Easy Entertaining isn’t just for entertaining. It’s simply a great cookbook with inspiring recipes that will become family favourites. Another success, Darina!
Easy Entertaining
Author: Darina Allen
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-761-8
Divine –
Heavenly Chocolate Recipes with a Heart
Perhaps we could say that this book is Divine by name and
Divine by
nature. The “nature” in question is that of Fairtrade chocolate.Linda Collister, the author, has long been a supporter of fair trade and has compiled these recipes which specifically use Divine Fairtrade Chocolate. I guess you could use other brands of good quality chocolate but why not do something good for yourself and others. The Divine brand offers some of the best chocolate around and each bar you buy helps support farmers in Ghana. This isn’t a free hand-out. Those farmers work hard but get a fair price for their cocoa beans. A win-win partnership.
Divine – Heavenly Chocolate Recipes with a Heart is a sumptuous volume in classy black and gold. The photography by Lisa Barber is excellent and the gold coloured text gives this book in general a very high-end feel. The pages are decorated with traditional West African Adinkra symbols which celebrate the relationship between Divine, the company, and Kuapa Kokoo, the farmers’ co-operative in Ghana.
However much you applaud the fair trade philosophy, you will buy this book for its truly delectable recipes. Well, where do I start? There are lots of traditional favourites like chocolate chip cookies but many have a bit of a twist. White Chocolate Cookies Studded with Cranberries are a treat and Lava Peanut Cookies sound downright intriguing, with Lava being an easy fudge icing added after baking. Looks like a great wet-afternoon project with the kids.
Many of the recipes are quite out of the ordinary. Balsamic and Chocolate Cake is egg- and dairy-free. Linda says this one works well with some mascarpone and ripe figs on the side. Sounds romantic, Italian and summery. Keeping to that same continental theme, Marbled Italian Cheesecake uses mascarpone instead of the usual cream cheese to give a lighter and silkier texture.
Divine not only offers us cake and cookies but ice-creams and savoury recipes as well. Bitter Orange Soufflés Glaces are quite easy to make and freeze, ready to be the grand finale of your next smart dinner for friends. Mexican Day of the Dead White Chocolate Mole doesn’t seem very cheery but it’s a delicious recipe of chicken with a tasty nutty sauce. Sounds like a strange combination but it works, trust me, and, no, this doesn’t taste like a chicken and Mars Bar casserole, the chocolate is there more for richness than flavour.
Divine – Heavenly Chocolate Recipes with a Heart is an impressive, gift-quality book that has a thoughtful selection of both traditional and contemporary recipes. Gift-quality it might be but I’ll be keeping my copy for myself!
Divine – Heavenly Chocolate Recipes with a Heart
Author: Linda Collister
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £19.99
ISBN 9781904573739
Hamburger – A Global History
Reaktion Books is a publisher that has presented some of the most worthwhile food-related books around. They have just added a new collection of books to their list and you’ll want these if you have ever boasted of having a love of food. The Edible Series has three titles at the moment (Hamburger, Pizza and Pancake) but more will be added soon.
Hamburger – A Global History is a small-format book but it has a quality feel to it and a wealth of historic and iconic illustrations. The author Andrew F. Smith is a hamburger aficionado but obviously doesn’t spend all his time in fast-food joints. He has found time to pen The Encyclopaedia of Junk Food and Fast Food, and he edited The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink, and teaches culinary history at the New York School, New York.
Either you love or loath the ubiquitous burger but we probably all agree that it’s here to stay. So the question is “Why is it here?” and why is “here” all over the world? Hamburger – A Global History considers not only the nutritional nature of the patties but their social impact. I doubt that any food product has caused more outrage or adoration than these ever-present meat-filled buns.
At the time of publishing, McDonalds boasts sales of over 100 billion hamburgers, which works out to be about 16 hamburgers for every person alive in the world. The statistics are mind-blowing! The hamburger has however been an American classic since the 1890s and was on sale in every diner, cafe and restaurant in the US by the 1930s.
Did you know, dear reader, that the first commercial hamburgers sold outside the USA were served in Paris? They were served to expats in the 1920s. I note that a “Macdo” is still the food of choice for many visiting Americans. Furthermore, The McAloo Tikki Burger is the best selling burger in India! The first burger chain in India was Nirula’s in the 1950’s. Their menu included Paneer Burger, Mutton Maniac Burger, French Flip Burger (chicken) and Crazy Pea Burger (made from dried peas).
We in the UK preferred our fast food to be a little slower than Mcdonalds so embraced the Wimpy Bar. These are a dying breed of burger restaurants with an unexpected touch of civilisation. You get a real plate with real cutlery served by a waiter who is often real and you can wash your meal down with a nice cuppa tea...with a saucer!
Hamburger – A Global History offers us a comprehensive exploration of the ever popular fast food and considers the future. It’s a thoroughly entertaining read and a “must read” for anyone who has either an interest in food in general or who has concerns over the globalization of meat-based fast food.
Hamburger – A Global History
Author: Andrew F. Smith
Published by: Reaktion Books
Price: £8.99
ISBN 978-1-86189-390-1
Quick and Easy
Low-Fat Cooking
It should be no surprise that I am here again with another
Catherine
Atkinson cookbook. Quick and Easy Low-Fat Cooking follows the same
format as all the Quick and Easy series. Slim volumes but full of
delicious recipes, mouth-watering photography and, most important, the
information is always accurate and understandable.It’s probably true to say that there are quite a few Low-Fat cookery books around but the recipes here have the advantage of speed without sacrificing taste. Catherine has selected dishes that trick you into thinking that these are not light foods at all. The combinations of ingredients, spices and textures will allow you to make healthy choices and you’ll enjoy doing it.
Quick and Easy Low-Fat Cooking isn’t exactly a “diet” book but rather a “change your eating habits because you need to shed some weight and live a healthy life” book. Have a flick through the pages and you’ll see that making some simple adjustments will make a big difference.
Take the time to read the few short chapters before the recipes. These give key advice on eating well and cutting down on fat. There is a Weekly Meal Planner which will help you through the first four weeks and Catherine has even provided shopping lists so there will be no excuse to resort to the chippie or take-away half way through week two!
It’s not necessary to be overweight to use and enjoy this book. The food is just tasty. Moroccan Chicken is seasoned with coriander, cumin and cinnamon with a tang of fresh ginger. It’s the spice here that gives the impression of richness that is often provided by oil. Catherine suggests green beans with this and I reckon that would be smart enough for a dinner party. This dish is ready in less than 40 minutes and it is simple.
There are plenty of vegetarian dishes on offer. Many vegetarians say that too often they resort to cheese as the main meal ingredient. Open Lasagne is stuffed with fresh vegetables and has the stylish contemporary look of a real cheffy dish. The recipe uses only 25g (1oz) of grated Parmesan to garnish.
Quick and Easy Low-Fat Cooking will be welcomed by anyone who either wants or needs to consider a lower-fat diet. Remember that there are more things to eat than to avoid. Catherine Atkinson has provided a tool to make a positive and painless life change. Enjoy!
Quick and Easy Low-Fat Cooking
Author: Catherine Atkinson
Published by: Foulsham
Price: £7.99
ISBN 978-0-572-03455-9
How to Cook for Food Allergies
Are food allergies more common these days or are we just more aware? It’s evident that there are a lot of people who have adverse reactions to common ingredients but everyone wants to eat delicious food. How to Cook for Food Allergies will be welcomed by millions who want to provide safe food for the whole family with dishes that everyone can enjoy.
Lucinda Bruce-Gardyne is a chef and co-author of award-winning Leith’s Techniques Bible. She has not only taught but has run her own catering business. She has three children, two of whom have food allergies. Lucinda is well-placed to give advice born of first-hand experience.
If problem foods were ingredients such as truffles, larks tongues in aspic and fillet of aardvark then this book would never have been written. It’s common foods that cause the difficulties. Eggs, soya, nuts, gluten and dairy are the main culprits. If you want to have a varied and interesting diet then you need to know how to substitute these foods for ones that will not present symptoms. Lucinda gives you all the advice you’ll need to make those substitutions.
How to Cook for Food Allergies has three parts, the first being Living with Food Allergies. It’s probably the most important element of the book as it deals with how to avoid problem foods, eating out and travelling, and eating a balanced diet on a restricted diet.
The second part of How to Cook for Food Allergies tells us how to substitute ingredients, and each of those common problem foods has a chapter. Read this and you’ll start to see the light at the end of the culinary tunnel. Lucinda offers us the prospect of real food that doesn’t taste like a compromise.
The third part introduces the recipes and you’ll linger over these because they are good, flavourful dishes that are easy to prepare and will be appreciated by the whole family. Gone are the days of cooking two different meals to accommodate allergy sufferers as well as those lucky folk who can eat everything down to the pattern on the plate.
Moroccan Chicken, Apricot, Olive and Saffron Tagine is aromatic and exotic but free of dairy, gluten, eggs, nuts and soya. Lasagne al Forno will become a favourite if you use gluten-free pasta. There are lots of allergy-aware products in supermarkets today. Gluten-Free White Bread uses potato flour, cornflour, tapioca flour and rice flour instead of the conventional strong wheat bread flour. The same recipe can be used to make pizza.
How to Cook for Food Allergies is a practical cookbook that will be a god-send for anyone who either suffers from food allergies or cooks for someone with a food intolerance. It’s well-researched but not over technical. It’s sure to become a best-seller.
How to Cook for Food Allergies
Author: Lucinda Bruce-Gardyne
Published by: Rodale, Pan Macmillan
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-905744-28-2
500 Pizzas and
Flatbreads
I have never come across anyone who doesn’t like bread and
there are
very few people who would pass up on a deliciously garnished pizza. 500
Pizzas and Flatbreads has enough ideas to keep everyone happy. It’s
another volume in the Apple Press 500 series of books. They are always
well written and well presented with great shelf-appeal, but they
are also thoroughly practical.Rebecca Baugniet is a freelance food writer who has also penned 500 Pies and Tarts and has worked as the food consultant on other books in the 500 series and her passion for food is evident in this smashing volume.
Making bread isn’t rocket science, dear reader. All you need are a few simple ingredients and a couple of good recipes. Bread dough is versatile and more forgiving than you would imagine. Pizza and flatbreads are a good start for the novice baker. They are after all...er, flat! It’s the light and lofty loaf that worries people but that’s not what we are after here.
If you are a lover of a good quality pizza then you will expect to part with quite a bit of cash for each pie. If you make your own you have several advantages. First, freshness and quality. (OK that’s two but I am trying to be fair!) Second, your choice is endless, everything from traditional cheese and tomato with a sprig of fresh basil, to figs! Third, you’ll send the kids to Uni on the money you’ll save. You need the cash more than the lad on the moped does!
Rebecca has provided us with several basic pizza base recipes and then it’s on to the delicious variations. There is everything from the most humble but classic and still popular cheese-topped pizza to Steak and Mushroom Pizza. There are hundreds of recipes here and you’ll make little adjustments to suit your taste. Once you have mastered the simple technique of making the dough then there will be no stopping you.
If you prefer more classic flatbreads then you’ll be pleased to find Classic Fougasse with its tang of black olives. Focaccia has the delicate flavour of olive oil and the crunch of sea salt. Crisp Rye Flatbread or “knackerbrod” is listed here and would be lovely served with some flavourful cheese. The list of flatbreads is almost endless and truly international. There are lots from India, Mexico and the USA.
500 Pizzas and Flatbreads offers plenty of advice to the novice bread maker as well as an amazing selection of recipes both classic and contemporary to the more experienced baker. Another great value book from Apple Press.
500 Pizzas and Flatbreads
Author: Rebecca Baugniet
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £ 9.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-270-6
The Legendary Cuisine of Persia
I can’t overestimate the importance of The Legendary Cuisine of Persia. There are so few books on the culinary history of Iran although it has had a profound effect upon the foods of so many eastern countries as well as the Mediterranean diet.
Margaret Shaida, the author, was born in England but moved to Iran when she married. She lived there for 25 years and learned to cook from her mother-in-law, friends and other family members.
At first glance you might find it difficult to see the relevance of Persian cuisine in modern Europe but there are a few clues to its impact. The Old Persian bâdangân became al-badinjan in Arabic, alberjinera in Spanish, and finally aubergine in French and English. The word Spanish has its origin in the Old Persian espenj, oran