Indian Railway Kitchen.
For more than 20 years I have been writing articles and even a book about Indian food and restaurants, but it still has my heart leaping with joy when I discover a gem – and Chook Chook in Putney is just such a jewel.
Chook Chook is themed as an Indian railway kitchen. That might not sound enticing for those of us who are old enough to remember British Rail food or dry and curly ham sandwiches or oily dry and curly cheese sandwiches served on a chipped plate. But an Indian railway kitchen is famed for its food!
Railway cuisine has changed and now mostly follows the predictable international norm of prepacked and reheated dishes, but the nostalgia lingers. Travellers remember crockery and cutlery embossed with the emblem of the particular railway. There were signature dishes and regional specialities. Chook Chook in Putney emulates not only the well-loved food but also the ambiance of the classic carriages, and they do it in fine fashion.
Chook Chook is perhaps the cosiest Indian restaurant I have ever visited. The dark wood walls and ceiling create a cocoon. There are booths into which to nestle, and metal plates, tumblers and illuminated carriage windows to add to the sense of authenticity. It’s a classy and inviting oasis.
There are cocktails here, and some of them give a nod to the exotic East. Rasmalai Martini is a House special cocktail of vanilla vodka shaken with Baileys, rose liqueur, saffron and cardamom. It’s rich and creamy and is indeed the alcoholic liquid version of the classic Indian dessert. Hawa Hawai is a beautiful, layered libation of vodka, peach schnapps, topped up with mango, lime and cranberry juice. It’s fruity and refreshing and the perfect sip to partner a basket of Popadams and chutneys.
We started our epicurean adventure with something from the Chaat menu. Do try these crunchy and fresh delights. You don’t find them often and we had the beautifully presented Dahi Sevpuri, which are crispy puffy puris stuffed with spicy potatoes and topped with yoghurt and chutneys. They are mouth-sized so eat in one bite to avoid mess. These are addictive and make the perfect hors d’oeuvres.
Pav Bhaji is better known for being an Indian Street food, and here it is served as a starter. It is a Mumbai speciality of a collection of cooked, spiced and puréed vegetables to be consumed on soft and warm buttered buns. This is quintessential comfort food.
The best Lamb Chops in London
The Lamb Chops here, I would venture to say, are the best in London. The chops are marinated in ginger, garlic, yoghurt, green chillies and coriander then cooked in a clay oven. These will offer the most tender meat you have likely ever eaten. They are truly exceptional and must be a signature dish.
For our main courses we wanted to try a traditional biryani and the intriguing Railway Chicken Curry. The Lamb Biryani was a substantial portion (in fact all the portions here are generous) of well-flavoured rice encasing tender chunks of meat. This was a delicious example of the genre and would not disappoint any self-proclaimed afficionado of this classic rice creation. For those who want a lamb gravy dish then don’t miss the vibrant House Lamb Curry of small pieces of tender lamb cooked in a special karahi masala. It’s a mouthwatering curry and bursting with spice.
A noteworthy dish here is that of Garlic and Chilli Prawns. It’s a tempting platter of crispy fried prawns tossed in special chilli garlic sauce with assorted peppers. Some plain rice or bread with this and you would have a luxurious meal of Instagram-worthy perfection. A dish that tastes as good as it looks!
That Railway Chicken Curry is a winner and deserving of celebration. This dish will be welcomed by those who prefer a milder curry but one still packed with layered flavours. The velvety sauce was full of large pieces of tender chicken and potatoes and was a standard offering on Indian railways. It’s hearty with mellow warming complexity.
I love a good daal and Chook Chook offers their House Black Daal. I think this is the Raja of daal dishes, and unmistakable for its look and texture. Overnight-soaked mixed lentils are slowly cooked in North Indian home style. It is a House speciality and that is no surprise. It is rich and creamy and truly regal.
Yes, dear reader, Chook Chook has won a couple more devotees, although it seems the locals have long been supporters. It honestly is worth a visit. We will look forward to many happy returns.
Opening Hours:
Monday to Friday
12:00pm – 2:30pm
6:00pm – 10:30pm
Saturday
12:00pm – 2:30pm
5:30pm – 10:30pm
Sunday
12:00pm – 2:45pm
5:30pm – 9:45pm
137 Lower Richmond Rd
London SW15 1EZ
Phone 020 8789 3100
info@chookchook.uk