No Meat but Nothing Missing.
Let me say at the outset that I am a meat-eater. We have meat-free meals for around 5 days each week, though. Many of us choose that balance. Mildreds will likely persuade any sceptic that vegetarian food has come a long way since the over-noble, beige-and-unappetising offerings of the 70s. Mildreds’ dishes are exciting and tasty, with broad appeal.
Mildreds has the original restaurant in Soho but these days they are also found in Covent Garden, Camden Town, Kings Cross, Dalston and Victoria, and all offering menus of globally-inspired food and drink. Mildreds was also named as London favourite vegan restaurant in 2023.
Mildreds in Soho is housed in a beautiful building on Lexington Street, which was named in 1885 after the Baron Lexington, whose family had purchased this land in 1645. This building is thought to date from the early 18th century and is a Grade II Listed structure and perfectly in keeping with its historic thoroughfare.
Refined and classy
The restaurant is stylish, bright and airy with a skylight illuminating the rear seating area. Mildreds is comfortable and polished in every regard and it’s popular even on a cold October Wednesday. Yes, the décor is refined and classy, but it’s the food which will assure its continued success.
We started with a brace of well-crafted cocktails. My companion chose Prickly Pear Hibiscus Margarita made with El Tequileno Blanco, one of Mexico’s most popular tequilas, Cointreau, prickly pear, citrus and hibiscus. A Margarita for those who didn’t know they liked Margaritas.
My guest’s cocktail was a vision of pink and so was mine, although a softer and fluffier persona. I was tempted by the Lychee Rose Martini with gin by Mildreds, lychee, rose and lime. There were floral notes to the fore on the nose, but sweet fruit enhanced by that citrus on the palate. Pretty as a picture.
House focaccia paired with Mildreds’ red pepper Romesco of Catalan roast peppers, tomatoes and almonds was our shared starter. This, like all other items it seems, is served in generous portions. The Romesco had not only a rich and vibrant flavour but also a less-than-pureed-to-baby-food texture, which elevated this Romesco to a cut above many others. A signature starter if there ever was one.
Korean Fries Burger Chick+n was my main course, and it was outstanding and deliciously unique. A card-carrying carnivore would not feel short-changed. This was a substantial southern fried plant chick+n ‘breast’, gochujang chilli sesame glaze, kimchi, cucumber and coriander salad, and I included some cheez which just added to the experience. I love a good juicy, flavourful burger and this ticked all the epicurean boxes. Fries came on the side but be warned, you might not need them. The bun was soft and sweet, the chick+n was the filling foundation on which were built layers of spice and freshness. I highly recommend this to anybody with doubts about meat-free meals.
My companion appreciates a proper pie, and he was not disappointed with his Mushroom Ale Pot Pie. It was a rather spectacular presentation of forest mushroom stew topped with a puff pastry lid, served with smashed peas, mint oil, red wine gravy and triple-cooked potatoes. This hearty plate was pure comfort food. The pastry was flaky, topping an umami-laden filling. The smashed peas were light and fresh-tasting, acting as a foil to the savoury pie.
Dessert was a cherry saffron creme brulee with a garnish of morello cherry compote and candied puffed quinoa. This was big enough to share, although it would have been rude to not try the tiffin truffles of dark chocolate with cookie pieces, apricot and crystallised ginger.
Happy to recommend
This dessert duo, along with coffee, was a finale to a delightful dining experience. The restaurant is charming, the staff are friendly and professional, and the food is exceptional. No, not just exceptional when compared to their vegetarian competition, but Mildreds can hold its own against any restaurant in its price range. I didn’t know what to expect but I am happy to recommend Mildreds to anyone with discerning taste looking for a meal in Soho.
Mildreds Soho
45 Lexington Street
London
W1F 9AN
Phone: +44 20 7494 1634
Monday to Saturday: 9am until 11pm
Sunday: 9am until 10pm
Visit Mildreds here