You know, dear reader, that Indian food is my passion. It’s been my pleasure to review many Indian cookbooks written by India-born Indians, UK-born Indians, India-born English, and now an India-born Indian living in the USA. Monica Bhide is that Indian and she has penned a most delightful book that will be as well received on this side of the pond as it is bound to be in the US.
Modern Spice takes a look at Indian food and gives it a twist. None of us have endless time to spend in the kitchen. We want food that is flavourful, healthy and attractive but we don’t want to be taking all day cooking it. Monica has a life full of children, work and husband but she still wants to present food that reflects her rich heritage. She takes advantage of ingredients that are readily available in western supermarkets and adds Indian spices to create a selection of new recipes that are both Asian and Western. This isn’t fusion food, it’s evolution food.
You don’t have to be a practised preparer of subcontinental food. There is plenty of advice here to set you off on your culinary journey. The first chapters introduce you to the spice pantry and then Monica’s Kitchen Rules. Nothing to make you anxious, just good sound cooking know-how.
Accessible and charmingly different
Monica has captured the essence of Indian food but she has transformed it. These dishes are both accessible and charmingly different from those that we more often see in European-targeted cookbooks. The Indian “Burger” is traditional street food but Monica has adapted it for the western kitchen. This is comfort food at its spicy best. Heirloom Tomato Salad with Chat Masala has few ingredients and fewer directions but the result is both refreshing and spicy. Again, it’s using great produce to present something that is unique and appealing.
It’s difficult to choose just a couple of favourite recipes from Modern Spice. The Legendary Chicken 65 will become… well, legendary. It’s that combination of deep-fried food (don’t look at me that way, I am not eating it every day) and a spicy oil as a garnish.
Green Beans Subzi can be made with frozen green beans. This is a marvellous side dish to some plain roast meat. Yes, it has the unmistakable flavour of India but you don’t need to use Indian dishes just with Indian meals. There is so much in Modern Spice that you can mix and match with the European.
True, this is a cookbook, and a very fine one, but if you just read the recipes you will miss so much. Monica’s life has taken her from India to Bahrain and then to America. Modern Spice is a book made richer by family anecdotes, stories of laughter and tears. It’s a warm-hearted page-turner with lovely recipes. Modern Spice should become a classic of contemporary Indian cuisine. It’s not a compromise, it’s fresh and inviting.
Asian cookbook review: Modern Spice
Author: Monica Bhide
Published by: Simon and Schuster
Price: $25.00, £17.19
ISBN 13: 978-1-4165-6659-5
Cookbook review by Chrissie Walker © 2018
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