Battersea Power Station has a profile instantly recognisable, to Londoners at least. It was a coal-fired power station, and it was originally two separate buildings, one built in the 1930s and the other in the 1950s. The two stations had similar design and the combination created the iconic four-chimney façade. The station closed in 1983, but remains one of the capital’s best known buildings. These days the area around Battersea Power Station is a hive of activity, with new homes, businesses, restaurants and bars opening in a neighbourhood that was once somewhat overlooked. Cinnamon Kitchen at Battersea Power Station is the latest restaurant in the celebrated Cinnamon Group by chef Vivek Singh.
Cinnamon Kitchen at Battersea Power Station has the same quality and offers the same attention to detail as the other Cinnamon restaurants, and once again, Vivek has ensured that this new venture has its own individual character. This Cinnamon incarnation has urban vibe but still that trademark package of impeccable food, drink and service.
A rather smart development
The restaurant isn’t actually in the power station but it’s close by and under the railway arches. One might have visions of panel-beaters, motorbike refurbishers and light engineering works, but these days those arches house creditable restaurants and bars, and are adjacent to a rather smart development with river frontage. There has, thankfully, been no attempt inside to disguise the brick arch which adds so much to the casual yet sophisticated vibe. There is the occasional rumble of the trains overhead, but it’s unobtrusive and somehow adds to the charm.
Like its sister Cinnamon Kitchen, the restaurant specialises in modern-Indian cuisine with British influences and ingredients. It is open every day for lunch and dinner as well as cocktails, and it offers a light bar menu which is bound to be popular with riverside-strollers out for summer walks.
We nibbled on what must surely be the lightest dhokla in town. Don’t miss these fluffy steamed chickpea cakes. The dish hails from Gujarat in Western India and is made from a fermented batter. Sounds simple and they are not over-garnished or fiddled-with, but they are utterly addictive!
My guest was intrigued by Railway Style Vegetable Cake of beetroot and raisin with kasundi fermented mustard. This was a hearty patty, delicious and with great texture – a substantial starter. I was equally fascinated by the sound of Bombay Street Food. This proved to be an assortment of small items showing the colour and vibrance of popular Indian nibbles. The platter included Vada Pao, a miniature vegetarian burger, tapioca cake, and chilli paneer – spicy Indian cheese. This collection of Asian tapas showed the breadth of Subcontinental snacks.
Try the flambéd Lobster Soup
If you are looking for decadence and rich luxury then try the Lobster Soup flambéd with brandy in true French fashion. This is a soup packed with seafood and served with a deal of fiery theatre. It’s not always on the menu, but order it when it’s available and you won’t be disappointed.
My choice of main dish continued the vegetarian theme. Kadhi Pithod Saag was a plate of spiced chickpea gnocchi in yoghurt and spinach sauce. This might not sound enticing to committed carnivores, but I promise that this could turn even the most sceptical of meat-eating heads. This was pure comfort! I would be happy to sit with a plate of these soft pillows, a piece of naan for mopping up the sauce, and a glass of red for lunch any time.
King Prawns in Bengali Turmeric Curry was my guest’s dinner dish. This must surely be a signature plate at this new Cinnamon Kitchen. The seafood was succulent, with a bread-dippable sauce. Truly a delight, as proved by the reluctance with which the aforementioned companion offered to share half a prawn!
Lassi Panna Cotta was a light, creamy and original dessert, with a beautiful and delicate presentation with which to finish the meal. This was perfect with a pot of Masala Tea over which to warmly linger.
Cinnamon Kitchen at Battersea Power Station will surely be a success. It has all the hallmarks of Vivek Singh’s good taste and care. Like all the others in the group it has its own persona, but this is the difference between a chain restaurant and a restaurant that just happens to be part of a rather classy group.
OPENING HOURS: Monday to Friday: 11am to 11pm
Cinnamon Kitchen Battersea
4 Arches Lane
London
SW11 8AB
Visit Cinnamon Kitchen Battersea here